The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' AssociationSmith, Watson
Science
The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association
Smith, Watson
Hats
artificial indigo is proving a formidable rival to the natural product.
Orchil paste, orchil extract, and cudbear are obtained by exposing the
plants (species of lichens) containing the colouring principle, called
_Orcin_, itself a colourless substance, to the joint action of ammonia
and air, when the oxygen of the air changes that orcin by oxidising it
into _Orcein_, which is the true red colouring matter contained in the
preparations named. The lichens thus treated acquire gradually a deep
purple colour, and form the products called "cudbear." This dye works
best in a neutral bath, but it will do what not many dyes will, namely,
dye in either a slightly alkaline or slightly acid bath as well. Orchil
is not applicable in cotton dyeing. Being a substantive colour no
mordants are needed in dyeing silk and wool with it. The colour produced
on wool and silk is a bright magenta-red with bluish shade.
Litmus is also obtained from the same lichens as yield orchil. It is not
used in dyeing, and is a violet-blue colouring matter when neither acid
nor alkaline, but neutral as it is termed. It turns red with only a
trace of acid, and blue with the least trace of alkali, and so forms a
very delicate reagent when pieces of paper are soaked with it, and
dipped into the liquids to be tested.
Safflower: This vegetable dyeing material, for producing pink colours on
cotton without the aid of a mordant, consists of the petals of the
flower of _carthamus tinctorius_. It contains a principle termed
"Carthamin" or "carthamic acid," which can be separated by exhausting
safflower with cold acidulated water (sulphuric acid) to dissolve out a
yellow colouring matter which is useless. The residue after washing free
from acid is treated with a dilute solution of soda crystals, and the
liquid is then precipitated by an acid. A red precipitate is obtained,
which fixes itself directly on cotton thread immersed in the liquid, and
dyes it a delicate rose pink, which is, unfortunately, very fugitive.
Silk can be dyed like cotton. The colour is not fast against light.
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