Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
What a departure! The Governor of Jaffa and his suite, the Capugi Bachi
and his officers, Mr. Catafago (carried off on his way from Acre), Malim
Musa (who had just arrived), Damiani, the doctor, Beaudin, the
dragomans, the interpreters, the cooks! An escort of a hundred
dark-faced Hawarys horsemen. Lady Hester, in a palanquin of crimson
velvet drawn by two white mules, preceded by her mare and her donkeys,
saddled and ready for her to mount, if she showed the desire to do so.
The army of camels vanishing beneath the picks, the mattocks, the
spades, the wheelbarrows, the ropes with which they were laden; the
crowd of water-carriers and torch-bearers. The twenty sumptuous tents
given by Soliman, one particularly of magnificent dimensions, of a green
colour, ornamented by chimeras and yellow stars, double like the calix
and the corolla of a flower turned upside down, attracted the attention
of all. It was the tent which the Princess of Wales will render famous
and which was to play an important part at the time of that scandalous
trial of 1820, in which George IV--very far, however, from having a
stainless private life!--will have the impudence to come to parade all
these stories of the alcove and to make march past all that rabble of
hired witnesses: Swiss, Germans, Italians particularly, for the simple
pleasure of being disembarrassed of his wife!
Three messengers galloped in advance of the caravan. The inhabitants of
the villages were turned out to leave the place for her. The Moslem
governors bent under the will of a woman in a fanatical country. Ah!
truly she was able to cry, five years later, in recalling this journey:
"The wife of that poor King (George IV) came to Syria to pass as an
obscure Englishwoman, while Lady Hester played there the part which the
Princess of Wales ought never to have abandoned!"
The green and blue tents rose amongst the stones and took by assault the
ruins of Ascalon. They were extremely comfortable, and nowhere in Syria
had the doctor found better fare. On April 3,1815, the hundred peasants
who had been requisitioned in the environs began the work of excavation
to the south of the mosque. The first blows of the mattock brought to
light earthenware and fragments of a column of no interest. On the 4th,
the picks met with a resistance, and a magnificent statue of mutilated
marble was gently drawn out. It was the body of a warrior of colossal
dimensions, measuring six feet nine inches from shoulder to heel, and of
a very beautiful shape. The doctor will conjecture that it belonged to
the Herodean epoch, and the head of Medusa which ornamented the chest
induced him to think that he was in the presence of a deified king. The
next day cisterns were discovered. Finally, on the 8th, great
excitement! Two stone angels cemented by four columns of grey granite
were unearthed. Surely the treasure was within! Labour in vain, hopes
deceived; they were empty, completely empty!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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