Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
Soon Mr. Catafago took Lady Hester to pass some time at Nazareth. The
little town, twin sister of the towns of Umbria or Tuscany, dispersed in
terraces its bright-coloured houses on the slope where cyprus-trees
perched. And the Eastern sky possessed Italian charms.
Bruce brought back from an excursion to Tiberias a fantastic Arab. He
was no one less than the celebrated Burckhardt, Sheik Ibraham as he had
himself called. Tall, strong, shaped like a Hercules, with a broad
German face, prominent eyes, badly placed teeth and an air of assurance,
he displeased Lady Hester. He quitted Syria definitely for Egypt, after
having travelled for two years over the unexplored regions of Lebanon,
Anti-Lebanon and Hauran. None of Lady Hester's companions knew at that
time that he was travelling on account of the Geographical Society.
In July, Lady Hester returned to St. Jean d'Acre to organise the
departure. The caravan passed the gates of the town at sunset. The noise
and the confusion were frightful. The majority of the Christian servants
had never ridden on horseback; and the horses, accustomed by their Arab
masters to rear, dance, neigh and play a thousand tricks on leaving the
villages, added to the confusion. Shouts from the drivers, yells of
fright from the servants.... Mrs. Fry, the English lady's-maid, worried
and ill at ease in her masculine habiliments, persisted in wishing to
ride as an Amazon, at a time when all women in the East rode astride.
The camels became entangled in their leading-reins and threw the line
into disorder when it was scarcely reestablished.
With time and blows, all was settled. The doctor and the janissary Hadji
Ali took the head of the march. In the darkness, beasts and men wandered
from the torrent-bed which served as a track. Suddenly, noises and
tumults in the rear; the camel carrying the medicine-case had just
fallen into a ravine. He was got out again unhurt; but the doctor did
not dare to open the box. Poor medicine-case, collected with great
difficulty in Egypt to replace that lost off Rhodes, it had truly no
chance!
The route seemed sometimes an alley in an English park, well sanded,
bordered by green Aleppo pine-trees, alternating automatically with
thickets of cactus, crested with roses and yellows, sometimes a path of
rocks fit to break the bones. Ruins ended by being engulfed on the
seashore. The road climbed interminably. From a rocky point they saw in
the far distance Tyre like a little fishing barque stranded on the
beach.
The slowness of the journey was full of charms. Sometimes they passed
naked women who were washing their linen at the fountain and who,
without being troubled the least in the world at the sight of them,
carelessly turned their backs. They had just traversed the Nalsr and
Kasimaze when five blind men emerged suddenly, holding each other by the
shoulders and walking one after the other. These joyous fellows
astonished them by their pleasant appearance and their merry air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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