Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
"The palace is devoid of all beauty. It is new, but irregular; it has
not two parts alike, and it has been built in pieces and bits, in
accordance with fancy or necessity, in accordance with leisure or money.
The emir has made a present to Lady Hester of a fine horse, richly
caparisoned."
But the English find it difficult to admire what is not their fief.
Scarcely twenty years later, Lamartine was to find other expressions to
proclaim aloud his admiration. The lack of symmetry! But it is that
which ought to possess charm for lovers of the beautiful! And what a
wonderful view was this medley of square towers pierced by ogives, of
long galleries with files of arcades slender and light as the stems of
pine-trees, of graceful colonnades of unequal shape rearing themselves
to the roofs. And the animation of the courts blooming with roses: pages
throwing the djerid, arrival of camels, horses pawing the ground,
comings and goings of Druses, Marionites, Metaoulis!... The doctor saw
nothing; but it must be said in his defence that the palace had hardly
been completed, and that in the East the stones, like the women, grow
old quickly. The masonry crumbles to dust; the rain pierces the roofs;
and the sun, like a skilful magician, gives to the crumbling façades
the golden rust and the rose tint of very old ruins.
But what is unpardonable in the doctor for not having admired, is the
site. Beit-ed-Din is the "Palace of the Waters," with the vaporous mists
which mount from the torrent, with the fountains of its mysterious
gardens, with the eternal murmur of the humid earth which chants its
joy, and the countless cascades and the dropping of the spray which
bathes in the dew, and the silvery foam of the numberless streams and
frolicsome springs. And down there, at the extremity of the valley, the
sea, which presents itself like a pearl at the bottom of a cup.
In the environs of Deir-el-Kammar, Lady Hester went to see another chief
of the Druses whose authority and influence were very considerable, the
Sheik Bechir. He occupied the Palace of Moukhtara, and the doctor, who
had more taste for feminine beauty than the poetry of nature, remarked
that his wife was beautiful and his children charming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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