Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
Damascus was still a town closed to Europeans. The fanaticism was freely
developed and imposed its laws on the governors too benevolent towards
foreigners. The length of the Syrian coasts, the relations of commerce,
to which the Arabs attached extreme importance owing to the profit which
they derived from it, and the authority of the consuls--whom they
believed powerful and supported by their countries--had brought a
certain tolerance. But Damascus, forbidden fruit, was concealed far
inland, guarded by the double ramparts of the Lebanon, by solid walls,
and particularly the desert, which came to die at its feet like a silent
sea.
The few travellers who had visited it, and whom Lady Hester had met at
Cairo or in the towns of the coast, had strongly dissuaded her from
attempting an adventure of which the result might be tragic and which
certainly would remain perilous.
"Think," said they to her, "that a man cannot even enter Damascus in
European costume without being insulted. Think that the Christians, if
they dared to ride on horseback in the streets of the town, would be
maltreated to such a degree that death would be the consequence. And you
intend, you, a woman, a European, to enter Damascus on horseback and
with your face uncovered! But it is madness!"
The pacha's page had on several occasions hinted to the interpreter, one
of the two Bertrands, that Lady Hester ought to veil herself to enter
Damascus in order to avoid irritating the populace. For, in case of a
riot, he knew well that the pacha, whose authority was much disputed,
would not be able to afford her protection.
M. Bertrand nearly succumbed with horror on learning from the mouth of
her ladyship herself that it was her intention to brave Damascene
opinion by exhibiting herself in this costume, and in broad daylight.
Lady Hester was courageous. The unforeseen, even charged with threats,
smiled upon her. And, above all, she was able to accomplish something
great which no one had ever attempted before her. Pitt's niece had
always turned up her nose at whatever people might say.
"Whatever people may say of me in England, I do not care more than
that," declared she to the doctor, snapping her fingers. "Whatever
horrible things all these crooked-minded persons may think, do not
trouble me more than if they spat at the sun. That falls back on their
noses and all the harm is for them. They are like midges on the tail of
an artillery horse. They murmur, and they come and go, and they buzz all
around. The great explosion comes! boom! and all are dispersed."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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