The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
But the kiosks! Who shall number the kiosks! those gilt-latticed,
many-formed, and graceful toys, which seem as though they had been
rained from the sky during an hour of sunshine—see them on the heights
of the Asian shore—seek them in the depths of the “Valley of Sweet
Waters”—count them as they rise at short distances along the walls of
the Seraï—pause a moment to admire their fairy-like beauty as you
gallop through some lovely glen, so wild and solitary that you almost
fancied yourself to have been the first who has ever explored its
recesses—any where, every where, you come upon them; and they are so
neatly kept, so brightly gilt, and so gaily painted, that they look like
gigantic flowers scattered over the landscape.
But back, my truant fancy, to the sea of Marmora, and the shores of
Scutari; where the light caïque is bounding over the heaving waters, and
Mount Olympus, with its crown of snow, is summoning you to memories of
the days when, if Gods indeed were not, men lent them life! Back to the
hoary walls of Byzantium—to the lingering relics of the Ancient
Romans—to the City of the True Believers!
We passed the little bay of Cum-capu, or Sandport, and our caïque
shortly afterwards shot into the creek of Yani-capu; but we had not left
the boat five minutes when we became suspicious that the servant was not
altogether so familiar with the road leading to the palace of the Pasha
as he had professed to be. Nor were our suspicions erroneous; for, after
leading us up one street and down another; along the foot of the
Aqueduct of Justinian; and amid the blackened remains of the last great
fire, he fairly confessed that he had lost his way.
In this dilemma, we took a guide, who assured us that he was as familiar
with the palace of the Scodra Pasha as with his own house, and so he
proved to be; though the trifling inconvenience that ensued convinced us
that we were as far from our object as ever. After threading a vast
number of narrow streets, each more filthy than the last, we at length
reached one which, built on a steep acclivity, boasted a somewhat more
comfortable and cleanly appearance; the houses were larger and better
kept, and the shops less frequent and more respectable. Our guide
stopped before a pair of great gates about half way up the hill, and,
seizing the knocker, gave very audible evidence of our wish for
admittance; after which he pocketed his piastres, and withdrew.
On the opening of the gate, we found ourselves in a small covered court,
choked with rubbish. A house, literally “tottering to its fall,” and
propped on the garden side with heavy pieces of timber, presented itself
as the palace of the Pasha; and the door of the harem, which one rude
blow would have shivered to atoms, was immediately before us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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