The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
As we clomb the hill, we passed beside the Imperial kiosk, a delicate
little edifice with walls of pale green, and snow-white jalousies; and
then, descending a slight acclivity, we found ourselves opposite the
magnificent barrack, which forms so fine a feature from the sea. There
is probably no country in the world where the barracks are so elegantly
built as in Turkey; they have all the appearance of palaces; and that of
Scutari being appropriated to the Imperial Guard is the handsomest in
the neighbourhood of the capital; being a quadrangle, flanked with
square towers, built in three sections, gradually diminishing in size,
and crowned by a slight spire. Immediately opposite to the principal
gate of the barrack stands the magnificent mosque of Selim III.; but
Scutari, among the numerous temples whose slender minarets are relieved
by the dark back ground of her funereal cypresses, possesses one of
which I must not forget to make mention. Small in size, and not
particularly elegant in its appearance, the mosque of the Sultana Validè
must not be passed over in silence, built as it was from the proceeds of
one of her diamond-sprinkled slippers!
I have mentioned that this barrack is occupied by the Imperial Guard:
and I never shall forget their appearance, as groups of them passed us
on the road. Dirty, slouching, and awkward, many among them without
either shirts or stockings, they certainly looked as unlike Household
Troops as can well be imagined; and might have traversed three quarters
of Europe without being mistaken for soldiers at all, either by their
gait or their garb. When on duty, and not examined too closely, they
make a fair figure as a body, but on ordinary occasions they are as
unmilitary in their appearance and bearing as the rest of the Turkish
army; and the majority of them are such mere boys that they induce a
feeling of pity rather than fear. On one occasion, when I paid a visit
to the Sultan’s sister, while waiting to be admitted, I amused myself
by looking attentively at the palace-guard, who had all collected
outside the guard-house to see the Franks; including the two sentinels
on duty, they amounted to ten individuals; and certainly eight of the
number were not more than fourteen years of age; nor do I believe that
any of them had washed their faces, or brushed their garments for a week
previously.
A Pasha, while speaking with me one day of the Turkish army, assured me
that it was composed of “excellent materials.”—It may be so; I cannot,
nor do I desire, to confute his opinion; but it is certain that, like
other raw materials, it will require a great deal of working before it
can be rendered serviceable; and that, at present, there are few things
more laughable than to see a Turkish regiment at drill or exercise;
there is an independence of feeling and action about each individual
which is quite _impayable_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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