The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
I shall say nothing of the forest-like cemetery; I have spoken of it
elsewhere. The dark cypresses were flinging their long shadows across
the road; and the hill which we slowly ascended on quitting the
manufactory was called “The Rise of the Vines.” The name is
appropriate; for the houses that fringe it on the left hand overlook a
wide extent of orchard and vineyard, interspersed with kiosks, and
groups of flowering acacias. The view was bounded by the sea, and the
tall mountains above Broussa: and flowers were blossoming by the
wayside, and wild-birds were singing among the boughs. No wonder that
the nature-loving Turks are attached to Scutari.
A small building to the left of the road attracted my attention, and I
alighted to examine it. It proved to be the tomb of a Saint; and I
distinguished, through the closely-latticed casement, a wooden
sarcophagus surmounted by a green turban, and surrounded by the
prayer-carpets of the priests. The wire-work of the window was knotted
all over with rags; shreds of cotton, woollen, and silk—morsels of
ribbon and tape—and fragments of every description. They had been
fastened there by sick and suffering persons, who had firmly believed
that their trouble, whether mental or physical, would remain attached to
the rag, and that they should themselves “return each to his home
clean.”
We avoided the town, for the Plague was there; that omnipresent but
invisible enemy which stretches its clammy hand over the East, and
sweeps down its prey, unchecked by the groans of the bereaved, or the
pangs of the smitten—the deadly Plague, which spares neither sex, nor
age, nor condition, but makes one universal harvest of mankind.
Nothing ever thrilled me more than when I once came suddenly, during my
wanderings, upon an encampment of the Plague-smitten. The huts are
generally erected on a hill-side, and the tents pitched among them; and
you see the families of the infected basking in the sunshine within
their prescribed limits, and gazing eagerly at the chance passenger,
whom his ignorance of their vicinity may conduct past their temporary
dwellings; the children rolling half-naked upon the grass; and the
sallow and careworn parents hanging out the garments of the patients on
the trees of the neighbourhood. Such was precisely the case with that
into which I had unconsciously intruded; and whence I was very hastily
dislodged by the shouts of the guard, stationed to enforce the
quarantaine of the mountain colony; and the alarmed exclamations of my
companions.
It is difficult to look upon such a scene, and upon such a sky, and to
believe in the existence of this frightful scourge! It is the canker at
the core of the forest-tree—the serpent in the garden of Eden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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