The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
On passing the threshold, I found myself in a covered peristyle, whose
gigantic columns of granite are partially sunk in the wall of which they
form a part; the floor was covered with fine matting, and the coloured
lamps, which were suspended in festoons from the lofty ceiling, shed a
broad light on all the surrounding objects. In most of the recesses
formed by the pillars, beggars were crouched down, holding in front of
them their little metal basins, to receive the _paras_ of the
charitable; while servants lounged to and fro, or squatted in groups
upon the matting, awaiting the egress of their employers. As I looked
around me, our own attendant moved forward, and raising the curtain
which veiled a double door of bronze, situated at mid-length of the
peristyle, I involuntarily shrank back before the blaze of light that
burst upon me.
Far as the eye could reach upwards, circles of coloured fire, appearing
as if suspended in mid-air, designed the form of the stupendous dome;
while beneath, devices of every shape and colour were formed by myriads
of lamps of various hues: the Imperial closet, situated opposite to the
pulpit, was one blaze of refulgence, and its gilded lattices flashed
back the brilliancy, till it looked like a gigantic meteor!
As I stood a few paces within the doorway, I could not distinguish the
limits of the edifice—I looked forward, upward—to the right hand, and
to the left—but I could only take in a given space, covered with human
beings, kneeling in regular lines, and at a certain signal bowing their
turbaned heads to the earth, as if one soul and one impulse animated the
whole congregation; while the shrill chanting of the choir pealed
through the vast pile, and died away in lengthened cadences among the
tall dark pillars which support it.
And this was St. Sophia! To me it seemed like a creation of
enchantment—the light—the ringing voices—the mysterious extent, which
baffled the earnestness of my gaze—the ten thousand turbaned Moslems,
all kneeling with their faces turned towards Mecca, and at intervals
laying their foreheads to the earth—the bright and various colours of
the dresses—and the rich and glowing tints of the carpets that veiled
the marble floor—all conspired to form a scene of such unearthly
magnificence, that I felt as though there could be no reality in what I
looked on, but that, at some sudden signal, the towering columns would
fail to support the vault of light above them, and all would become
void.
I had forgotten every thing in the mere exercise of vision;—the danger
of detection—the flight of time—almost my own identity—when my
companion uttered the single word “_Gel_—Come”—and, passing forward to
another door on the opposite side of the building, I instinctively
followed him, and once more found myself in the court.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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