The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
From the _Tchernberlè Tasch_ we proceeded to visit a cistern called by
the Turks _Bin-Vebir-Direg_, or the “Thousand and One,” in allusion to
the number of columns that support it. It is an immense subterranean, of
which the roof is in reality sustained by three hundred and thirty-six
pillars of coarse marble, each formed of two or more blocks.
These pillars are now buried to one-third of their height in the earth,
the water-courses having been turned, and the cistern dried up, for the
purpose of receiving the rubbish which was flung out when the
foundations of St. Sophia were laid. It is now occupied by silk-winders,
and they have become so accustomed to the sight of visiters that they
scarcely suffer you to descend the first flight of steps before they all
quit their wheels, and begin shouting for _backschish_. The channel worn
in the stone by the passage of the water that once flowed into the
cistern is distinguishable on three different sides of the subterranean,
which is lit by narrow grated windows level with the roof; and the
echoes, prolonged and flung back by the vaulted recesses, have a sound
so hollow and supernatural that they appear like the distant mutterings
of fiends.
As we were about to quit _Bin-Vebir-Direg_, one of the silk-spinners
informed us that there was another smaller _Boudroum_, or subterranean
in the neighbourhood, to which he offered to conduct us; honestly
admitting, at the same time, that the atmosphere that we should breathe
there was so unwholesome that few persons ventured to indulge their
curiosity by descending into it. Thither we accordingly went, and the
less reluctantly as we ascertained by the way that this also had been
converted into a spinning establishment, where fifty or sixty persons
were constantly employed.
A short walk over the rubbish of an ancient fire brought us to the
narrow door of this second subterranean. And we had not descended a
dozen steps, ere we were perfectly convinced of the accuracy of the
information given to us by the guide. Each felt as though a wet garment
had suddenly been wound about him; and the appearance of the miserable
beings who were turning the cotton wheels, sufficiently demonstrated the
unhealthiness of the atmosphere; they were all deadly white, and looked
like a society of recuscitated corpses. We had heard a confusion of
voices from the moment that we approached the neighbourhood of
_Bin-Vebir-Direg_, but all was silence within the _Boudroum_ where we
now found ourselves; while the blended curiosity and astonishment with
which every eye was turned upon us, was a convincing proof that the
unfortunates who tenanted it were little used to the sight of strangers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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