The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Our next expedition was to Balouclè, where the Greeks have recently
built a small, but elegant church, upon the spot once occupied by a very
spacious edifice, which had gone to ruin. The ride, though long and
somewhat fatiguing, was most delightful; the road leading us across the
hills, to the fair Valley of the Sweet Waters, along the banks of the
sparkling Barbyses, past the Imperial kiosks; and onward to the
beautiful village of Eyoub, the stronghold of the Constantinopolitan
Turks, wherein they allow no Giaour to reside; and the marble floor of
whose thrice-holy mosque no infidel foot has ever trodden.
The situation of Eyoub is eminently picturesque. It is backed by
gently-swelling hills, clothed with trees, where the delicate acacia and
the majestic maple are mingled with the scented lime and the dark and
rigid cypress, whose blended shadows fall over a thousand graves, and
turn away the sunlight from the lettered tombs of many a lordly
Musselmaun. Eyoub possesses also a melancholy interest from the fact,
that in its beautiful cemetery stands the rude mausoleum of the rebel
Ali of Tepeleni who revolted in Albania, wherein are deposited the heads
of himself, his three sons, and his grandson. Nor is this all; for a
small mosque, almost buried amid tall trees, may be distinguished at the
point where the main street sweeps downward to the water’s edge, whose
modest minaret is painted a dull red from its base to its spire, and
which bears the thrilling designation of the “Mosque of Blood.”
I have elsewhere mentioned that the Osmanlis do not permit their temples
to be desecrated by the admission of the dead beneath their roofs; and
this humble pile earned its awful appellation at the siege of
Constantinople, when its doors were forced by the combatants, and its
narrow floor cumbered with slain. Since that period, its single minaret
has been painted as I have described; and it possesses an additional
interest from its vicinity to the bleak, naked, treeless hill, whereon
were interred all the True Believers who perished at that memorable
period, and whose ashes still remain undisturbed.
Nothing can be more romantic than the appearance of the Seven Towers,
the remains of the Palace of Belisarius, and the crumbling walls of the
city, extending along the whole line of road to Balouclè, like a
succession of ruined castles; and overtopped by forest trees, whose
bright foliage forms a striking contrast from the grey and mouldering
rampart. At intervals, towers thickly overgrown with ivy, and tottering
to their fall, raise their fantastic outline against the sky; while the
moat is in many places entirely concealed by the wild fig trees, and the
dense underwood, that have sprung in wild luxuriance from the rich soil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account