The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Mustapha Pasha, his son, figured on the occasion of the Fêtes with a
diamond star upon his breast, and grasping a whip bound with gold wire,
and furnished with a long lash, which he laid about the heads and
shoulders of the mob with a most lavish hand, whenever they advanced an
inch or two beyond their allotted boundary. I confess that I could not
help smiling as I pictured to myself the reception which His Highness
Mustapha Pasha, General of Brigade, and Provost Marshal of the Ottoman
Armies, would have received from a sturdy English mob, when they felt
his long whip among them! I suspect that his labours would have been
brief, and his office not altogether a safe one.
Could I have disengaged my carriage from the crowd, I should at once
have retired, perfectly satisfied with the specimen I had obtained of
the Turkish taste in theatricals; but the arabas were standing four
deep, and pressed upon from behind by a dense mob; and I was
consequently compelled to remain a patient spectator of the whole
performance. Intrigues with Greek serving-men, domestic quarrels ending
in blows, and similarly well-conceived incidents, filled up the canvass,
until the end of the second act, when a fresh set of ballet dancers,
amounting to nearly one hundred, and clad in the beautiful old Greek
dress, entered, and made their bow to the Pashas.
During their performance, which was similar to that of the first party,
although less gracefully executed, a new feature was added to the
exhibition. An attempt at side scenes was evident, though I confess that
for the first few minutes I was at a loss to imagine the intention of
the very primitive machinery that was introduced. A couple of frames,
similar to those on which linen is dried in England, were placed on a
line about twenty feet apart, while, in the centre, a low railing of
about six feet in length divided the distance. A poor old wretch, with a
rope about his neck, was then tied to each frame, and made to squat down
upon his hands and knees, to represent a watch-dog; and some green
almonds were scattered about him for his food.
These miserable individuals, whose hired and voluntary degradation made
me heart-sick, were both of them old men, whose beards were grey, and
whose age should have exempted them from such an office as their
necessities had induced them to fulfil. Beside these were placed two
youths dressed as Chinese, with long braids hanging down their backs,
and feather fans in their hands; not very unlike the figures which adorn
the old china in the cabinet of an antiquary. Next came forward a
procession composed of all the trades of Constantinople, from the Jew
who vends fried fish at the corners of the streets, to the Frank
merchant, who, when he closes his office, becomes one of the
“Exclusives” of Pera.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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