The collected works of William Hazlitt, Vol. 02 (of 12)Hazlitt, William
General
The collected works of William Hazlitt, Vol. 02 (of 12)
Hazlitt, William
English essays -- 19th century
We were stopped at the entrance of the harbour by the voice of a
sentinel, and questioned concerning who we were, and what our trunks
contained; but this is rather a form than a scrutiny; for few ports are
so free of access, or give so little trouble with respect to
Custom-house duties, as that of Hamburg. The government of Hamburg,
comparatively, has laid but few restraints upon trade: that is, it has
practised fewer of the vices of finance, common, more or less, to all
governments; which absurdly rob, by their endeavours to enrich
themselves. We landed on the _Vorsetzen_, at the principal stairs of the
harbour, and were immediately struck by their inconvenience: they were
narrow, steep, and dangerous, especially to persons carrying luggage.
The _krahnziehers_, or city porters, perceiving we were English, and
unacquainted with the place, pressed their service upon us, which we
eagerly enough accepted; and having landed our trunks on the quay, one
of them went for a coach, and another for a car, to remove us and our
effects. We intreated them to make haste, which they promised; and
though they kept us waiting in vexation above half an hour, they might
still be said to keep their word: as Germans, they were quick. We had
indeed heard much of the inflexible phlegm of this people, but as yet we
were novices in its practical effects. While we stood watching our
luggage, gazed at and gazing, the appearance of those around us strange
to us, and ours to them, among other things that attracted attention
were two waggons, if they might so be called, that met; and though the
street, speaking of Hamburg, was tolerably wide, could scarcely pass.
Each was drawn by four horses, two abreast, the driver riding on the
near or left hand shaft-horse; each had four wheels, and not two feet
broad at the bottom, though both were uncommonly long, the axle-trees
projected above a foot on each side; in short, nothing could be more ill
constructed for turning and passing in narrow streets. The convenience
which would have resulted from their small width, was wholly destroyed
by the projecting axle-trees; the rope harness was so long, and the
horses drew at such a distance from each other, as at once to employ the
space of drawing abreast, and what was nearly sufficient to have drawn
lengthways. This, added to the length of the waggon, the awkwardness of
the drivers, and the lazy unconcern with which they sat and looked, when
they had embarrassed each other, before they determined how they would
act, combining and harmonizing with other appearances around us,
immediately gave birth to much surmise and meditation on national
character. It was heightened too by the contents of one of the waggons,
which was loaded with the filth and ordure of the city, as offensive
almost to the sight as to the smell. Let us not, however, be too hasty
in our conclusions, the detail of facts as they arise will best explain
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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