The collected works of William Hazlitt, Vol. 12 (of 12)Hazlitt, William
General
The collected works of William Hazlitt, Vol. 12 (of 12)
Hazlitt, William
English essays -- 19th century
that Coleridge was a wonderful man. He scarcely opened his lips, much
less offered an opinion the whole way: yet of the three, had I to chuse
during that journey, I would be John Chester. He afterwards followed
Coleridge into Germany, where the Kantean philosophers were puzzled how
to bring him under any of their categories. When he sat down at table
with his idol, John’s felicity was complete; Sir Walter Scott’s, or Mr.
Blackwood’s, when they sat down at the same table with the King, was not
more so. We passed Dunster on our right, a small town between the brow
of a hill and the sea. I remember eying it wistfully as it lay below us:
contrasted with the woody scene around, it looked as clear, as pure, as
_embrowned_ and ideal as any landscape I have seen since, of Gaspar
Poussin’s or Domenichino’s. We had a long day’s march—(our feet kept
time to the echoes of Coleridge’s tongue)—through Minehead and by the
Blue Anchor, and on to Linton, which we did not reach till near
midnight, and where we had some difficulty in making a lodgment. We
however knocked the people of the house up at last, and we were repaid
for our apprehensions and fatigue by some excellent rashers of fried
bacon and eggs. The view in coming along had been splendid. We walked
for miles and miles on dark brown heaths overlooking the Channel, with
the Welsh hills beyond, and at times descended into little sheltered
valleys close by the seaside, with a smuggler’s face scowling by us, and
then had to ascend conical hills with a path winding up through a
coppice to a barren top, like a monk’s shaven crown, from one of which I
pointed out to Coleridge’s notice the bare masts of a vessel on the very
edge of the horizon and within the red-orbed disk of the setting sun,
like his own spectre-ship in the _Ancient Mariner_. At Linton the
character of the sea-coast becomes more marked and rugged. There is a
place called the _Valley of Rocks_ (I suspect this was only the poetical
name for it) bedded among precipices overhanging the sea, with rocky
caverns beneath, into which the waves dash, and where the sea-gull for
ever wheels its screaming flight. On the tops of these are huge stones
thrown transverse, as if an earthquake had tossed them there, and behind
these is a fretwork of perpendicular rocks, something like the _Giant’s
Causeway_. A thunder-storm came on while we were at the inn, and
Coleridge was running out bare-headed to enjoy the commotion of the
elements in the _Valley of Rocks_, but as if in spite, the clouds only
muttered a few angry sounds, and let fall a few refreshing drops.
Coleridge told me that he and Wordsworth were to have made this place
the scene of a prose-tale, which was to have been in the manner of, but
far superior to, the _Death of Abel_, but they had relinquished the
design. In the morning of the second day, we breakfasted luxuriously in
an old-fashioned parlour, on tea, toast, eggs, and honey, in the very
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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