New York (N.Y.) -- Description and travel; New York (N.Y.) -- Social conditions
And the interesting and to me different character of the amusements
offered here! Out over the sea, at one end of the huge Manhattan Hotel,
had been built a circular pavilion of great size, in which by turns
were housed Seidl’s great symphony orchestra and Sousa’s band. Even now
I can hear the music carried by the wind of the sea. As we strolled
along the beach wall or sat upon one or the other of the great verandas
we could hear the strains of either the orchestra or the band. Beyond
the hotels, in a great field surrounded by a board fence, began at
dusk, at which time the distant lighthouses over the bay were beginning
to blink, a brilliant display of fireworks, almost as visible to the
public as to those who paid a dollar to enter the grounds. Earlier in
the afternoon I saw many whose only desire appeared to be to reach the
race track in time for the afternoon races. There were hundreds and
even thousands of others to whom the enclosed beach appeared to be all.
The hundreds of dining-tables along the veranda of the Manhattan facing
the sea seemed to call to still other hundreds. And yet again the walks
among the parked flowers, the wide walk along the sea, and the more
exclusive verandas of the Oriental, which provided no restaurant but
plenty of rocking-chairs, seemed to draw still other hundreds, possibly
thousands.
But the beauty of it all, the wonder, the airy, insubstantial, almost
transparent quality of it all! Never before had I seen the sea, and
here it was before me, a great, blue, rocking floor, its distant
horizon dotted with white sails and the smoke of but faintly visible
steamers dissolving in the clear air above them. Wide-winged gulls were
flying by. Hardy rowers in red and yellow and green canoes paddled
an uncertain course beyond the breaker line. Flowers most artfully
arranged decorated the parapet of the porch, and about us rose a babel
of laughing and joking voices, while from somewhere came the strains of
a great orchestra, this time within one of the hotels, mingling betimes
with the smash of the waves beyond the seawall. And as dusk came on,
the lights of the lighthouses, and later the glimmer of the stars above
the water, added an impressive and to me melancholy quality to it all.
It was so insubstantial and yet so beautiful. I was so wrought up by it
that I could scarcely eat. Beauty, beauty, beauty--that was the message
and the import of it all, beauty that changes and fades and will
not stay. And the eternal search for beauty. By the hard processes
of trade, profit and loss, and the driving forces of ambition and
necessity and the love of and search for pleasure, this very wonderful
thing had been accomplished. Unimportant to me then, how hard some of
these people looked, how selfish or vain or indifferent! By that which
they sought and bought and paid for had this thing been achieved, and
it was beautiful. How sweet the sea here, how beautiful the flowers
and the music and these parading men and women.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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