The Construction of the Small House: A Simple and Useful Source of Information of the Methods of Building Small American Homes, for Anyone Planning to BuildWalsh, H. Vandervoort (Harold Vandervoort)
History
The Construction of the Small House: A Simple and Useful Source of Information of the Methods of Building Small American Homes, for Anyone Planning to Build
Walsh, H. Vandervoort (Harold Vandervoort)
Building; Dwellings
The driveway to the garage ought to be about 10 feet wide and flare
out to a 15-foot width at the house, where the car is driven up to the
entrance, so that an incoming car can pass by any which is standing in
front of the door. This roadway should widen out into a Y shape in
front of the garage, as shown in the drawings, to permit of backing out
and turning around. A round turning area in front of the garage may
be substituted for this Y-shaped arrangement. Any curves made in the
driveway should have a radius from centre of the curve to outside edge
of the road of 30 feet 6 inches, although a Ford car can run on a road
having a radius of only 14 feet.
If the driveway is to be of gravel and the subsoil is wet or clayey,
drainage must be arranged for along the edges. Trenches 3 feet to 4
feet deep should be dug on either side and 3-inch diameter agricultural
tile laid at the bottom with open joints covered with collars, then a
layer of sod, and then 6 inches of field stone or gravel, and finally
top-soil. Wherever there are pockets that would collect surface water,
outlets should be constructed and covered with iron grating. All the
subsoil tile should connect with one main tile and drain off at some
low point.
For ordinary light traffic the road itself may be built with a
foundation of stones to a depth of 2 feet. This should be covered with
a layer of coarse gravel 2½ inches thick, a top layer of finer gravel
4 inches thick, and rolled with a heavy roller after water or some
bituminous binder has been sprinkled over it. A crown of ½ inch to the
foot should be made, and any grades ought to be kept about 5 feet in
100 feet, and at the most 10 feet in 100 feet.
In the construction of gravel walks the grade should be kept to within
12 feet in 100 feet and be crowned ¼ inch per foot.
The success of the brick walk depends upon the foundation used. A poor
one will permit the bricks to settle unevenly, crack, and break away at
the edges. The bricks themselves may be laid in any number of different
and interesting patterns, such as the basket weave or the herring-bone.
A row of bricks on edge along the outside of the walk makes an
excellent finish.
[Illustration: TYPES OF STONE PATHS]
[Illustration: TYPES OF BRICK WALKS]
The foundations of the brick walk may be built of sand, cinders, or
concrete. The first two give a walk somewhat irregular, and grass can
be made to grow in the joints. To begin the laying of a brick walk,
the earth should be excavated to a depth of 4 inches, and either a
bed of sand 2 inches thick, or a concrete of one part cement to eight
parts sand 3 inches thick should be spread. When the bricks have been
arranged on this bed, sand should be worked into the joints between
them by leaving a layer on the walk for a few days and brushing it into
the crevices.
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