The Construction of the Small House: A Simple and Useful Source of Information of the Methods of Building Small American Homes, for Anyone Planning to BuildWalsh, H. Vandervoort (Harold Vandervoort)
History
The Construction of the Small House: A Simple and Useful Source of Information of the Methods of Building Small American Homes, for Anyone Planning to Build
Walsh, H. Vandervoort (Harold Vandervoort)
Building; Dwellings
There are two types of asphalt shingle units. One consists of a unit
of twin shingles, so arranged that the butt ends which show to the
weather appear as two individual shingles, and the other consists of
one shingle unit. Both types are usually laid 4 inches to the weather
and nailed with 1-inch galvanized nails No. 10 wire with ⅜-inch heads.
At the eaves should be nailed a galvanized-metal drip edge, and over
this a double course of shingles for the first course. Hips and ridges
are finished with what appears to be a Boston hip, but the shingles are
bent over the hip line. The valleys and gutters are best when they are
lined with strips of ready roofing similar to the shingles themselves.
Asphalt shingles which come in long rolls or units of four or five are
laid in a similar manner, except that, due to their continuous length,
they are unable to expand without bulging up on the roof.
TIN ROOFS
Flat roofs, with an incline of about ½ inch to the foot, should be
covered with the flat-seam roof. The standing seam may be used on roofs
with a pitch not less than 2 inches to the foot. The tin is laid upon
the sheathing-boards without an intermediate layer of building-paper;
in fact, tar paper should never be used. In cities building codes often
require that tin roofs should be laid upon roofing felt ¹/₁₆ inch
thick, placed over the sheathing-boards, but this is a fire precaution
against burning brands which may drop upon the roof, for this felt
cushion gives an air insulation, preventing the quick ignition of the
decking below the tin.
[Illustration: Tin Roofs]
In laying the flat-seam roof a number of sheets are fastened together
to form a long strip of tin. The edges are bent over ½ inch, so that
they can be interlocked with the next strip. The tin is fastened to the
roof with tin cleats that lock into the seams of the sheets and are
fastened at the other end with two 1-inch barbed-wire nails. These
cleats are spaced about 8 inches apart. All the seams are flattened
down, and solder well sweated into them, rosin being the only flux used.
Tin, approximately in thickness 30-gauge, U. S. Standard, is called IC,
and recommended for the roof proper, while valleys and gutters should
be lined with IX tin, approximately 27-gauge. It should be painted on
both sides, before laying, with pure linseed-oil and red lead, or red
oxide, Venetian red, or metallic brown. Two coats should be given to
the exposed side and a third coat about a year later. Before the second
coat is applied the first should have dried for at least two weeks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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