The Continental Monthly, Vol. 3, No. 1 January 1863: Devoted To Literature And National PolicyVarious
History
The Continental Monthly, Vol. 3, No. 1 January 1863: Devoted To Literature And National Policy
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Politics and government -- 19th century -- Periodicals
To return to the Physical Survey, and to speak as briefly as we may upon
so extended a subject, we hold that it is possible, by a patient
collection of facts and figures, to determine the natural _scheme_ of
the harbor--we had almost said the _formula of its development_.
It is ascertained that the group of shoals which form the Bar--composed,
as they are, for the most part, of loose and shifting sands--are not
accidental accumulations, modified by violent storms and freshets, but
that they are orderly arrangements, made by the currents, to whose
unceasing activities are due the form and preservation of each bank and
channel. The peculiar contours of the shoals given by our most ancient
charts are still developed by recent surveys, although alterations in
magnitude have taken place. _The order of the physical forces is
unchanged, but their work is still progressing._
Now, since these currents have determinable laws, regulating their
periods, durations, velocities, and directions, it was only necessary to
compile observations, in order to reduce this study to a simple
consideration of the _composition of forces_.
'The process by which sand is swept along by currents upon the bottom of
the sea, is not unlike the motion of dunes upon the land; a ridge of
sand is propagated in the direction of the current by the continual
rolling of the particles from the rear to the front. This movement is
exceedingly slow when compared with that of the current which induces
it, and for this reason a shoal, though traversed by violent tidal
currents, may, as a whole, remain stationary when the alternate drifts
are equal and opposite; for in this case, though the sand upon the
surface is drifted to and fro, it undergoes no more ultimate change of
position than it would if the forces which acted upon it were
simultaneous and in equilibrium.'[9]
Of course, so simple a case as that in which the ebb and flood forces
are equal and opposite, is rarely presented; for at most of the stations
on the Bar the direction of the flow varies from hour to hour, going
quite round the circle in a half-tidal day: the velocities and
directions also vary with the depth. These circumstances complicate the
computation a little, but the problem is still simple and direct.
Everything depends upon the faithfulness of the observations.
The physical diagrams which have been plotted from the results of these
studies may be regarded as decided successes, for they show in most
cases that the shoals lie in the foci or in the equilibrium points of
the observed forces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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