The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
It was a fine coherent tale, and well told; but the witness's dramatic
instinct carried him away in the course of it, and he gesticulated
freely with the "broken" arm.
The _kaimakam_ rose with the majesty natural to one who combines the
offices of judge and jury, and delivered the judgment of the court. "The
English do not tell lies; but ye are liars and the sons of liars. Bring
fetters, and hale these scoundrels to the dungeon forthwith." Fetters of
pantomimic magnitude were brought accordingly; but while they were being
put on, the _kaimakam_ marred the grandeur of the proceedings by
suggesting to the Consul that as he had now two captives on whom he
could wreak his vengeance, perhaps he might be disposed to pardon the
third, who would be hard to catch!
He was somewhat disappointed on finding that the impracticable
Englishman was willing to pardon the two who had been caught; but
disposed to insist that the worst criminal must be punished! However,
the fugitive was caught and imprisoned later.
As for the two muleteers, they were released in an hour or so at our
request; and came to express their hope that the little unpleasantness
would not cause any diminution of the customary _bahkshish_! It was not
their fault, really; they had been possessed of the Devil at the time,
and that was surely excuse enough for poor simple men!
The seat of a governorship of low grade, like a _kaimakamlik_, is always
a home of oppression in Turkey. "Jack in office" is not an unknown thing
elsewhere; but he is usually not worse than annoying, and is sometimes
amusing. In Turkey, however (particularly in the out-of-the-way
districts), there is nobody to exercise a wholesome discipline on Jack,
or to care much what he does in small matters.
Further, all the officials at such posts are low down in the scale,
whether they have been long in the service or not; and so they have
either no character to lose, or else a fortune to make. An elderly man,
who has made his money and his name, is sometimes as good a governor as
the people are in a condition to appreciate; but not so the junior. Thus
it comes to pass that British Consuls of experience say that they have
known good _Valis_ fairly often, and even decent _mutaserifs_
occasionally; but a good _kaimakam_ is a _rara avis_ indeed. We have
known two in ten years; both of them being Albanians, and both
gentlemen. But in each case the barbarian was not very far below the
surface--any more than he is in an Englishman sometimes.
Thus in a small centre like Diza of Gawar, even the European traveller
may occasionally meet with discourtesy; particularly since the
Revolution has given the petty official an excuse for saying: "We are
civilized and constitutional now; therefore we need not treat these
beastly Franks with any more consideration than our own people."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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