Practically Urmi is a Russian town now; and every good _Shiah_ must feel that Mohurram, with infidel bayonets to keep the streets clean and orderly, has been robbed of its soul if not of its outward pomp. The processions still take place of course, and are even more magnificent with increasing wealth; but "Ichabod"--where is the old glory? The occupation crept in gradually, and came unperceived; but it is there, and will continue. First came the purely religious mission, for the protection and education of those Christians who wished to become members of the Orthodox Church. Then a Consul had to be sent, to protect the resident Russian priests and monks. Next, to avert any possible peril for the Consul, there must be an escort of Cossacks for him; and when the Persian Government is manifestly so feeble that the road cannot be kept open even for the Royal Mail, what can Consul and Consul-General do but patrol the roads for the public good? And then behold the occupation as complete and permanent as that of the English in Egypt. In both cases, the result looks as if there had been a deep-laid and unscrupulous plan all along. In both cases there has been no such thing; but circumstances have pushed the men on the spot into action; and authority at home (with more or less of unwillingness) has had to acquiesce. Neither Power has been able to avoid the feeling, "_mea res agitur, paries cum proximus ardet_." It is all for the best for those most concerned, for now there is safety, comfort, wealth, and an even law for all; but all the same one's memory turns lovingly to the picturesque, dirty, disreputable days of a few years ago! In those days, a real _Seyyid_ (or even a sham one) had the rights that a Descendant of the Prophet ought to have. [Illustration: THE CITADEL ROCK, VAN. No. 9] He lived at free quarters where he chose (on Christian villagers mostly) and paraded the streets in a flowing purple robe with a green turban, which indicated by its folds and pattern whether the wearer was descended from the Prophet by the male or female line. He was hated by all creeds maybe, but he was feared by all notwithstanding; by Moslems for his supposed spiritual rank, by Christians for his undoubted worldly power. Woe to the Christian dog who presumed to shirk getting off his horse and standing at the salute when the _Seyyid_ rode by; it was an unmerited favour that he should be allowed to ride a horse at all! Of course, there are gibes against the clan in plenty: for the more grossly superstitious a man is, the more impossible he finds it to keep his tongue off the Church which nevertheless he dares not disobey. When all else is bound, it is hard if speech is not free! Thus we are told how Khoja Nazr-ed-din was sent out by his wife one day to buy egg-plants for dinner. "Don't know what they are like," said the Khoja. "Mudhead," said his wife, "there are lots in the market--fat purple things with green heads."