The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
Mar Shimun's other counsellor was an Englishman of most exceptional
character; the late Doctor William Browne, of the "Archbishop's
Mission;" who for twenty-five years lived in this remote village as
adviser and friend of this Church, and of two successive Patriarchs in
it. In spirit a devoted fifth-century hermit, who somehow was born in
nineteenth-century England, he applied himself whole-heartedly to the
care of the Nestorian Church and its members, as their teacher, healer,
and at times rebuker. He lived their life with them, and now sleeps in
their midst. Many of the memories of one of the most picturesque and
romantic of modern lives were lost irrevocably at his accidental death
in 1910; but one or two which the writer received from him are worth
inserting, as throwing light both on the conditions under which he
lived, and on the character of the man himself.
In January and February of the year 1900, the news of the "Black Week"
in South Africa in the previous December filtered slowly through the
glens of Kurdistan. Mr. Browne (as he then was) was in his room in the
village of Qudshanis, when two visitors were announced; deacons of the
Church both, and good friends of their host. In they came, appearing
fully armed and equipped for a journey.
"Peace be to you, deacons," said the Englishman, "Are you going on a
journey at this season?"
"Upon you be peace Rabbi," came the answer; "Could you tell us the way
to South Africa?"
"To South Africa? Why on earth do you want to go there?"
"Well, Rabbi, we owe a good deal to you English; it seems from what we
hear that you fellows don't understand fighting behind rocks. Now we do
know _that_ here in Hakkiari if we know nothing else, and we thought we
ought to go and help."
They would certainly have been a picturesque reinforcement for Lord
Roberts; but it came out on inquiry that there really was no way of
getting to Africa without crossing the ocean, a prospect far more
dreadful than battling with any number of Boers; and so the volunteers
returned regretfully to their homes.
The "debt which they owed to the English," by the way, was principally
the service rendered to their nation by Stratford Canning in 1847; when
he insisted on the restoration of the children stolen as slaves by the
Kurds under Bedr Khan Beg, the Mira of Bohtan, who perpetrated a fearful
massacre of these mountaineers in that year. The return of those who had
been given up as dead (and who were brought back in some cases from
Aleppo and Smyrna) made a deep impression on the people, and has never
been forgotten since.
[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN BRIDGE.
A characteristic example near the village of Alot on the Lesser Zab.
No. 12]
On another occasion, a worthy old _qasha_, or priest, _Qasha_ Tuma by
name, better known for his straight shooting than for his learning,
turned up to interview Mr. Browne; assured him of his attachment to the
English, and asked if there was nothing he could do to serve him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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