The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
It is a little disconcerting for the European at first, and seems a
startling drop back through a good many centuries, when you turn a
corner in the road suddenly, and find yourself confronted by a group of
maidens, who have put all their clothes in the big copper to wash, and
are engaged in performing that office for one another. However, if the
stranger is embarrassed, they are not. It is not manners to stare of
course; and they sit still undisturbed till the man has passed, without
even interrupting their conversation. Good narrow-minded folk at home
say that they have no sense of decency. That, however, is an absolute
libel; and it is far more near to the truth to say that it is the sense
of indecency that is absent, as it was in the Garden of Eden. Layard had
experience of this custom when he brought men of these tribes down to
Mosul to work at his excavations. This he did for convenience' sake, in
that they, having only a mountaineer's superstitions, were immune to
those of the plain; and did not raise the same difficulties about
digging in the mounds that the Arabs did. Naturally, his excavators
brought their wives and daughters to cook for them; and naturally, those
ladies brought their habits, and took their tubs as they had always done
at home. When it was represented to them by their employer that they had
scandalized the decent and respectable city of Mosul by so doing, they
replied innocently, "But, sahib, if the Mussulmans object, they need not
look." A Saturday tub in Tyari is a solemn and proper ceremonial. All
the family go down together, and the washing is carried out, in true
Homeric style, by the ladies personally. The old women scrub the old
men, and the damsels the youths. When the men have finished the girls
take their tubs.
Certainly one poor Englishman had a painful experience, when he, a
newcomer to the country, took a walk down the valley of Tyari on a
Saturday afternoon. Turning a corner abruptly, he found a fair maiden
sitting in all innocence in her bath. The Englishman had been properly
brought up, so he averted his gaze, and passed by, as far away as the
narrow limits of the path allowed. However, the damsel had been properly
brought up too, but in a rather different school; and seeing that it was
a _qasha_ (Priest), who was passing, she sprang out of her bath and came
to kiss his hand as politeness dictates. Saint Anthony fled, totally
misunderstanding her purpose; and the damsel followed after, ejaculating
plaintively "Rabbi, Rabbi, what have I done that you will not allow me
to kiss your hand?" It is said that he ultimately covered his eyes with
his left hand, and extended his right at arm's length for the salute.
However, a very few weeks' experience gave him perfect indifference to
the spectacle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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