The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
Still if the European cannot sleep, the native is of a superior type.
Our assistant driver passed most of the journey rolled up in a ball
under the feet of his superior on the box. There, though apparently in
momentary danger of tumbling off under the wheels, he snored without
interruption, under conditions that might have kept the Fat Boy wakeful
and alert, never stirring save at the halts, and perhaps not being
really roused even then. It is certain that he got off, took the collars
from one set of animals and put them on to the next; but the act seemed
absolutely mechanical and somnambulistic, and when it was accomplished
he rolled into his place again and snored once more.
With the dawn we were making our way through a gap in that great wall
that so struck the imagination of Herodotus, and which still runs like
an abandoned railway embankment across the level plain. One must
question, however, whether the great structure was really (as the
"Father of History" tells us) built of burnt brick throughout, "laid in
bitumen, and bonded with reeds at every thirty courses." Faced with that
material it probably was; but it certainly has the appearance of being
built, like most of the houses of the town, of unbaked mud.
Germans as hospitable as their compatriots at Assur received us at
Babylon, and showed what they, working on the same thorough plan as
their comrades, have uncovered of the greatest city of the ancient
world.
Three great mounds, or sets of mounds, cover the ruins of Babylon, viz.
Babil, Kasr (the palace mound), and Amran. It is the centre one of these
that is now being excavated; though what has been uncovered is little
but the foundations and basements of buildings, or in many cases nothing
but the "matrices" from which every single burnt brick has been removed.
The city has been used as a brick-quarry for centuries, Baghdad and
various other towns being built almost entirely from this material; and
it is a rather melancholy reflection that, when the Germans have
finished their work, it is most probable that every brick they have
uncovered will follow the others in the course of a few years. No matter
how deep they bury them, they will be dug up, for good burnt building
material commands its price in a city like Baghdad. One must get what
consolation one can from the fact that at least good and accurate plans
of the whole will be available.
All the buildings of the central mound are uncovered now, presenting to
the casual visitor the appearance of a mere bewildering maze of
brickwork, in which it is very easy to get lost, though all is clear
enough to the expert eyes of the guide. Practically all that has been
found is of the date of Nebuchadnezzar; for only one building above
ground is the work of his father, Nabopolassar, and the most systematic
borings have found nothing below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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