The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
Thermantidotes, ice supplies, and all other luxuries of English life in
India are unknown in Mosul, though an enterprising Christian resident in
the town did once introduce an ice-machine. This was certainly welcomed
by the Vali, as the only sign of the new régime that he had found in
Mosul (it was shortly after the revolution), and as the only token of
progress of any sort that he could note as a result of the fifty years
that had elapsed since he had formerly been in the place as a very
junior civil officer.
There was strong conservative opposition to the introduction even of
such a mild instalment of progress; though perhaps it might have been
mollified, had the pioneer been a little more liberal with his
distribution of _bakhshish_! As it was weird accusations circulated
against the new engine; it smelt so abominable that the whole
neighbourhood of the factory was unhealthy (as though one stink more or
less could make any difference in Mosul); it turned out its ice red-hot,
and materially increased the heat that it was proposing to alleviate;
and it was an impious interference with the decrees and arrangements of
Allah. The ice-merchant, however, had not been born in Mosul, and bred
in America, without learning a thing or two; and he craftily put the
general commanding the garrison on the free-list for ice. He calculated
that, after the first week or so, a gentleman, who did not keep the law
about total abstinence too strictly, would not tolerate any interference
with the coolness of his drinks. That expedient worked admirably, and
all interference was summarily squashed, for so long as the machine
continued to work at all. That, however, was not many weeks, for no
machinery that is not absolutely and completely "fool-proof" can stand
the handling it gets from an Arab, and in Mosul the simplest repair may
necessitate months of delay. There will be no market for machinery in
the interior of Turkey, until good repair shops can be provided as well.
As capital of the province Mosul is the residence of a Vali, but the
town is administered under him by an "administrative council of
reputable citizens," who are popularly believed to be the most corrupt
gang of the sort in all Turkey. And we devoutly hope that the imputation
is true, for any clique which is more corrupt than they are must be
black indeed. Their leader is one Haji Ahmed, "son of the soap-seller,"
ibn Sabonji; a large landed proprietor who has accumulated his estate by
the simple process of ordering any unhappy Naboth whose land bordered on
his own to sell to him at any price that his big neighbour cared to
name. If the small man consented, well and good; if not, then an
accusation against him, accompanied with a trifle of _bakhshish_ to the
investigating judge, secured that the imprudent Naboth should live
untried in the town prison till such time as he should see reason.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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