The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
But even their works of utility have been no more spared by posterity
than the tablets which recorded their learning, or the palaces which
were the trophies of their pride. And such a work also had its source at
the quarries in the Gomel valley; one of those splendid irrigating
channels which used to feed the desert with the waters of life.[74] Its
course can be traced for some distance alongside the banks of the river;
where for yards upon yards the ample conduit is hewn through spurs of
solid rock. Werda had seen further remains of it far away on the plains
to the southward; "and the villagers were carrying off the stone facing
of the embankments to use in building their huts." It was "only the work
of infidels," and consequently fair loot for anyone. Now European
engineers are labouring to re-establish what might have been so easily
preserved.
The "Pictures of Bavian" are at least exempt from the fate which has
befallen most pictures. They are fixed for ever immovably in the
position for which they were designed. They are like some forgotten "Old
Master" which still hangs tarnished and ill-lit above the altar where it
was dedicated; and which shows there far more nobly than when restored
and exhibited in a brand-new gilded frame on a glaring gallery wall.
There are far finer Assyrian sculptures in the Louvre and the British
Museum than the grim, gaunt, battered sentinels that keep watch over the
Gomel vale. But ranged along a Bloomsbury corridor they are obviously
mere graven images; while enthroned amid the solitudes of their own
eerie mountains they seem to be the very gods themselves.
There are several similar bas-reliefs scattered here and there about the
mountains--some fairly well preserved like those at Malthaiyah between
Dohuk and Alkosh, some now almost obliterated like that by the gate of
Amadia. The great king seems to have delighted in setting his seal upon
any conspicuous point that was reached by his conquering armies: and to
this day that instinct re-asserts itself in the behaviour of Private
Atkins, who delights to carve the badge of his regiment upon any
conspicuous precipice in Afghanistan.
A caravan moves but slowly, but it generally wants to keep moving, and
the novice who is travelling with it finds that he is allowed few
lengthy halts. The old stagers always seem thinking of some point a
little way ahead which they would much prefer to have behind them.
Sometimes it is a bad bit of road which can only be traversed in broad
daylight; sometimes a river which may suddenly be rendered unfordable by
the intervention of an unforeseen spate. On this stage the unknown
factor was the conduct of the Khozr river, a much more considerable
stream than the Gomel, which lay some four hours further east; and whose
behaviour on the present occasion was more problematical than usual
because the dark clouds to the northward might imply heavy rain in the
hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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