The Cretan Insurrection of 1866-7-8Stillman, William James
History
The Cretan Insurrection of 1866-7-8
Stillman, William James
Crete (Greece) -- History -- Insurrection, 1866-1868
So, when my _avant-courrier_ announced to the awkward squad of
Anatolian infantry, ragged, sullen, that the "Consolos Bey" demanded
the road, a savage frown of unwelcome gleamed through the disciplinary
respect; while the shouting, chattering groups of Christian peasants
ambling along on the mules and donkeys, with their little loads of
fowls or oil for the market at Canéa, were generally arrested by the
summons of the guard, and drew up respectfully at the roadside, the
most respectful dismounting until I had passed.
The road for ten or twelve miles runs westward over a level plain, the
ancient bed of the Iardanos, by whose banks we know, from Homer, that
the Cydonians dwelt. The fact that the Iardanos (now called Platanos,
from the immense plane-trees growing on its banks) now empties into the
sea ten miles from Canéa, has puzzled geographers to reconcile Cydonia
with Canéa; but, on arriving at the point where the river debouches
into and cuts across the plain, it will be seen that the new channel to
the sea has been cut through the hills by the action of the river, and
that the ancient course was evidently eastward through the still marshy
plain into the bay of Suda, passing close to the position of Canéa.
The roads in Crete are marked with historical associations of all
ages, as the Appian Way with recollections of the great dead. The
town that we pass, near the mouth of the Platanos, was the ancient
Pergamos, whither Lycurgus, to evade the possibility of his laws
being revoked, banished himself, where he died, and was buried. The
town which we enter as we cross the Platanos at the ford is Alikianu,
the scene of that atrocious and perfidious massacre of which I have
told the story. It is a town of half ruinedd villas--some, of the
Venetian days--buried in orange-trees, and so surrounded with olive
groves that but little of it can be seen from the river. The road we
must follow only skirts it, following the river, until it rises on a
ridge of mountains, zigzag and undulating, up to Lakus. The Lakiotes
are accounted among the bravest of the Cretans; and though military
science, flank movements, and artillery made their town untenable in
the late insurrection, it is still a formidable position. The village
itself lies along under the summit ridge of the chain of hills which
form a buttress to the Asprovouna, stretching north, with steep
approaches from every side. It used to be a prosperous village, one
of the largest in the island, but now its straggling houses were in
ruins, two or three only having the roofs replaced, others having only
a canopy of boughs laid over one end of the space enclosed by the
blackened walls, enough to keep the dews off while the inhabitants
slept, for rain never falls here through the summer months. All bespoke
utter exhaustion and extreme poverty. The jaded, listless look of the
people, the demoralization of war and exile, most of them having been
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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