The Cruise of the Betsey: or, A Summer Ramble Among the Fossiliferous Deposits of the Hebrides. With Rambles of a Geologist or, Ten Thousand Miles Over the Fossiliferous Deposits of ScotlandMiller, Hugh
Philosophy
The Cruise of the Betsey: or, A Summer Ramble Among the Fossiliferous Deposits of the Hebrides. With Rambles of a Geologist or, Ten Thousand Miles Over the Fossiliferous Deposits of Scotland
Miller, Hugh
Geology -- Scotland
No sailing vessel attempts threading the Kyles of Skye from the south in
the face of an adverse tide. The currents of Kyle Rhea care little for
the wind-filled sail, and battle at times, on scarce unequal terms, with
the steam-propelled paddle. The Toward Castle this morning had such a
struggle to force her way inwards, as may be seen maintained at the door
of some place of public meeting during the heat of some agitating
controversy, when seat and passage within can hold no more, and a
disappointed crowd press eagerly for admission from without. Viewed from
the anchoring place at Glenelg, the opening of the Kyle presents the
appearance of the bottom of a landlocked bay;--the hills of Skye seem
leaning against those of the mainland: and the tide-buffeted steamer
looked this morning as if boring her way into the earth, like a
disinterred mole, only at a rate vastly slower. First, however, with a
progress resembling that of the minute-hand of a clock, the bows
disappeared amid the heath, then the midships, then the quarter-deck and
stern, and then, last of all, the red tip of the sun-brightened
union-jack that streamed gaudily behind. I had at least two hours
before me ere the Betsey might attempt weighing anchor; and, that they
might leave some mark, I went and spent them ashore in the opening of
Glenelg,--a gneiss district, nearly identical in structure with the
district of Knock and Isle Ornsay. The upper part of the valley is bare
and treeless, but not such its character where it opens to the sea; the
hills are richly wooded; and cottages, and cornfields, with here and
there a reach of the lively little river, peep out from among the trees.
A group of tall roofless buildings, with a strong wall in front, form
the central point in the landscape; these are the dismantled Berera
Barracks, built, like the line of forts in the great Caledonian
Valley,--Fort George, Fort Augustus, and Fort William,--to overawe the
Highlands at a time when the loyalty of the Highlander pointed to a king
beyond the water; but all use for them has long gone by, and they now
lie in dreary ruin,--mere sheltering places for the toad and the bat. I
found in a loose silt on the banks of the river, at some little distance
below tide-mark, a bed of shells and coral, which might belong, I at
first supposed, to some secondary formation, but which I ascertained, on
examination, to be a mere recent deposit, not so old by many centuries
as our last raised sea-beaches. There occurs in various localities on
these western coasts, especially on the shores of the island of Pabba, a
sprig coral, considerably larger in size than any I have elsewhere seen
in Scotland; and it was from its great abundance in this bed of silt
that I was at first led to deem the deposit an ancient one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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