The beauty of St Ann's, the principal grazing parish of Jamaica,
surpassed any notion I had previously formed of it;--the whole district
being a sea of gently undulating hill and valley, covered with the most
luxuriant waving Guinea grass--across which the racking cloudlets,
borne on the wings of the fresh and invigorating breeze, chased each
other cheerily as if it had been one vast hay field, ready for the
scythe--thickly interspersed with groves of pimento and fruit-trees,
whose picturesque situations no _capability_ man could possibly
improve. The herds of cattle that browsed all round us, whether as to
breed or condition, would have done credit to the first grazing county
in England. Lord Althorp should go and take a squint at St Ann's--I
daresay the worthies there might make him custos.
At length, as it drew on to three in the afternoon, we saw the cottage
glittering in all the West India glory of green blinds and white paint,
through the grove of fruit-trees in the centre of which it was placed.
It was a long low one-story house, raised about ten feet off the ground
on brick pillars, under which gamboled half-a-dozen goats, and
surrounded by a cool and airy piazza, while the neighbouring thickets
were peppered with a whole cluster of small white-washed buildings,
comprising kitchen, gard-du-mange, houses for the domestics, pigsties,
and poultry-yard.
We dismounted at one end of the piazza, where a door, kept gaping ajar
by a large stone on the floor, to which access was had by a flight of
steps, seemed to invite us to walk in. We ascended the stair and
entered. The dark mirrorlike floors, the fragrant odour of the fresh
gathered bitter oranges which had been just used in polishing them, the
green shade of the trees that overshadowed the building, tossing their
branches, and rushing and twittering in the sea breeze--the beautiful
flowers that crept in at every open blind and crevice--(a knot in the
weather boarding could not drop out but in would pop a rose, or a bud
of double jessamine, as if trying to escape the ardent gaze of the
sun)--the twilight of the rooms, and the glorious view of the
everlasting ocean in the distance (with a tiny white winglet of a sail
sliding along here and there), crisped with blue waves, as if the water
had reflected the mackerel sky that glowed over all, until both were
blended out at sea beneath a silvery haze--were indescribably luxurious
and refreshing--their sweet and cooling influences more strongly felt,
from the contrast they afforded to the heat and dust of the lowland
road we had just left. Oh! I could--curse it--_there's_ a
mackaw--there _is a_ mackaw--a bird I detest and abominate--so my
poetry is all blown to the moon in a jiffy. I would rather sit and
listen to the music of the setting of a saw, while enjoying the luxury
of a sick headach.--But let me whistle back my fancy again, and get on
with my story.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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