The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History: (Illustrated with over Fifty Quaint Cuts)Bickerdyke, John
History
The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History: (Illustrated with over Fifty Quaint Cuts)
Bickerdyke, John
Drinking customs; Drinking songs
“To make a vessel of sixty-three gallons, we are instructed that, the
water must be first boiled to the consumption of a third part, then let
it be brewed according to art with seven bushels of wheat-malt, one
bushel of oat-malt, and one bushel of ground beans. When the mixture
begins to work, the following ingredients are to be added: three
pounds of the inner rind of the fir; one pound each of the tops of
the fir and the birch; three handfuls of _Carduus Benedictus_, dried;
two handfuls of flowers of _Rosa solis_; of burnet, betony, marjoram,
avens, pennyroyal, flowers of elder, and wild thyme, one handful and
a half each; three ounces of bruised seeds of cardamum; and one ounce
of bruised bayberries. Subsequently ten new-laid eggs, not cracked or
broken, are to be put into the hogshead, which is then to be stopped
close, and not tapped for two years, a sea voyage greatly improving the
drink.”
The origin of the word “mum” is somewhat disputed, but the best
derivation seems to be from the name of Christopher Mummer, who is said
to have been the first to brew it. Others assign to the word an origin
from _mummeln_, to mutter, and this seems to have been Pope’s idea when
he wrote the lines:—
The clamorous crowd is hushed with mugs of mum,
Till all, turned equal, send a general hum.
Others, again, find the derivation in the word mum, meaning silence.
Brunswick is always given as its birthplace, and it was certainly
known as early as the sixteenth century, for in an old work, _De
generibus ebriosorum et ebrietate vitanda_ (1515), “mommom sive mommum
Brunsvigen” is mentioned as one of the drinks of Germany.
An old book, _England’s Improvement by Sea and Land_ (1677), contains a
remarkable proposition for bringing over the mum trade from Brunswick,
and establishing it at Stratford-on-Avon.
The old writer, from whom the receipt before-quoted is taken,
lays considerable stress on the fact that “the ingredients in its
composition are very rare and choice simples, there being scarcely any
disease in nature against which some of them is not a sure specific,”
the implication apparently being that the combination of these
ingredients would largely increase their healing power.
In one of the 400 letters addressed by Sir Richard Steele to his wife
we find him writing under date December 6th, 1717:—“I went to bed
last night after taking only a little broth; and all the day before a
little tea and bread and butter, with two glasses of mum and a piece
of bread. {174} at the House of Commons. Temperance and your company,
as agreeable as you can make it, will make life tolerable if not easy,
even with the gout.”
A particular variety of this beverage was known as Hamburgh mum, and a
catch in its praise of the early part of last century mentions it as
hailing from that city:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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