Spitz is a beautifully situated little town, with a pleasant market
place dominated by a square church tower with steep wedge-shaped roof
of many-coloured tiles. On the opposite side of the river is one of
the Arnsdorfs--a cluster of houses about a steep-roofed church--half a
dozen striking poplars and the wooded hills beyond. The Spitz castle
ruins upon the bare dark rock are among the most picturesque of those
we see, and represent an ancient place that belonged at one time to
those great territorial magnates the bishops of Passau and at another
time to some of those robber knights whose fastnesses were dotted with
what must have been disquieting frequency along the course of the
Danube.
Beyond Spitz--about which it has opened out somewhat--the valley again
contracts, and the road on the left is cut through rugged rock, which
in places almost overhangs the way. Looking back we have a beautiful
view of Spitz, the light green of its surrounding vineyards contrasting
strikingly with the rock, the mountains and forests and the broad
sweep of the green Danube, as seen under a cloudy sky with brilliant
sunshine following on a heavy shower. A little beyond and we reach the
small village of St. Michael with its old church, along the roof ridge
of which are placed seven hares, to commemorate--so the local story
runs--a time when the snowfall in the neighbourhood had been so heavy
that the hares were seen playing on the church roof! The animal figures
are as like deer, cows or horses as they are to hares! The open-topped
square tower of this old Gothic church is notable as being quite unlike
any other that we see in the neighbourhood.
Another story of this district, and of only little more than a hundred
years ago, seems rather an incident of the Middle Ages than of the
closing years of the eighteenth century. It is said that a poor lonely
old woman had got the reputation among her neighbours of being a
witch and, therefore, when she was feeding her goat upon a hillside she
was shot with a glass bullet; a severe thunderstorm which had arisen
having been caused by her, according to the belief of her superstitious
murderers.
[Illustration: SPITZ VINEYARDS]
The next point of special interest along this lovely bit of the river
is Weissenkirchen, the villages of Wösendorf and Joching, with their
orchards and vineyards, being pleasant little places without any
special feature to call for a halt. Weissenkirchen, however, is a place
that certainly does call for a halt owing to that which it has to show
in itself and as being situated where the valley has widened somewhat
at one of the most beautiful points in the Wachau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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