Near Nussdorf a branch of the river to the right--the Danube
Canal--goes off to the city and rejoins the main stream some distance
below it. But before following its course and getting a glimpse of
Vienna we may go up the winding stony paths, among varied shrubbery by
which the summit of the Leopoldsberg is to be attained. As we rise we
get ever wider views, until from the summit, about the ruins of the
old castle or from the low wall by the church we are given a splendid
view across the valley. Wooded slopes and a smiling valley forming a
pleasant foreground to Vienna, with the beautiful tall spire of St.
Stephen’s church standing boldly out above the many spires and domes
of the wide-spreading city, merging as we see it from this point into
the beautiful country and backed by the semicircle of the hills of the
Wiener Wald. To the left the broad Danube sweeps in a great curve, with
beyond it the extensive flatness of the Marchfeld, scene of momentous
fighting, and the lake-like expanse of the Alte Donau. From the western
side of the Leopoldsberg the view up-stream is even more beautiful,
with the Klosterneuburg almost immediately below and the islanded river
backed by the vine-grown hills that we have recently passed.
This lovely spot is also a favourite place of excursion with the
Viennese on Sundays and holidays, sharing at once its charms and its
popularity with the neighbouring height of the Kahlenberg. The old-time
castle from which Leopold the Holy saw his wife’s veil disappear
westwards has long since gone, and the château which followed on the
same site is now a place of refreshment for visitors--the group of
buildings and the small church being nearly surrounded by walls. On
a Sunday afternoon the dark restaurant room with its many animated
visitors forms a remarkable “interior.”
By a beautiful woodland path we may pass in a quiet walk of less than
half an hour to the Kahlenberg, from the summit of which, 1404 feet
above sea-level or about twenty feet higher than the Leopoldsberg, are
to be had further extensive views. From the Stefanie tower a clear day
affords a view eastwards across the valley of Vienna to the Lesser
Carpathians and southwards to the Styrian Alps. There is quite a small
village about the church and hotel on this hill, standing above a mass
of oak and other trees, which has been made more easily accessible from
Vienna by means of a mountain railway which comes from the city through
vineyards and woods to the hill-top. It is, however, but a little more
than a three miles’ walk from the city along the Beethoven Path--so
named from having been a favourite resort of the composer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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