Though it has now spread far about the valley, and towards the foot of
the vineyard hills, it is not so very long since Vienna was a walled
city recalling the days when Emperors were closely besieged in their
citadel, or the later times when the triumphing Napoleon made it one
of the centres of his conquest. Already, however, before the walls had
disappeared the town had so far expanded beyond them that, as a visitor
in the early part of last century said, Vienna was “the least part of
itself.” The same thing might be said of London if we were to regard
the City as London.
The magnificent St. Stephen’s cathedral--the most prominent object
in any survey of the city from the neighbouring heights--is one of
the sights that remain most vividly in memory after we have left
Vienna. This grand edifice, which has survived the many sieges before
which so much of the ancient town has disappeared, was erected in the
twelfth century, and forms one of the most beautiful of all temples
for Christian worship. Its delicate crocketed spire, rising from a
massive but rich tower is one of the great beauties of architecture,
and the lofty interior--despite some obtrusive modernities--is grandly
impressive.
The Palace at Schönbrunn is also a memorably beautiful place with
its splendidly planned grounds and beautiful view of the city from
its gloriette, but it is not possible to mention the many points of
interest, nor to refer to the historical or legendary lore of a city
that is rich in both.
One legend that may be given is that connected with the Spinnerinn am
Kreuz, a beautiful Gothic cross on the Wienerberg to the south of the
city, from the neighbourhood of which a lovely panorama of Vienna can
be studied and admired. This was erected in 1382, replacing a simple
crucifix, according to one version of the legend, which says that a
lady whose husband had joined the Crusades was wont to sit day after
day at the foot of the crucifix spinning and praying. When at length
the husband returned safely the thankful wife erected this cross with
the proceeds of her spinning. The other version of the story tells us
that a young Crusader here bade farewell to his lady love, and at the
moment of separation she presented him with a rose and sang--
“Take the flower! Let the heart’s first bequeathing
Be the pledge of true faith on thy plume;
When its perfume no longer is breathing--
Remember the rose in its bloom!
For beauty will fade, like its blossom,
Should the blight of false love interpose;
When the canker creeps into the bosom,
Then farewell the heart and the rose.
Of the heart and the hopes of the giver,
Fit emblem this rose-bud shall be--
Henceforth they are blighted for ever--
Or blossom till gathered by thee!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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