The scenery of the Danube as we reach the Hungarian frontier has taken
on a new beauty, for there is, as it were, a natural boundary to the
ancient kingdom where a spur of the Little Carpathians comes down to
the left bank of the river, while a lower range of hills on the right
marks off the Vienna valley that we have left from the far larger one
on which we soon enter. At the point where the castled foot of the
Little Carpathians is washed by the mingling waters of the March (the
Morava of old) and the Danube, we have, however, for a brief space, a
return to something like the lofty and rocky scenery of which we have
seen so much in the higher reaches of the great river. On the height
above the point where the two rivers join are castle ruins scarcely
distinguishable from the jagged spurs of the rock itself. These are the
remains of an important fortress castle of old, which was blown up by
the French in the year of the Battle of Wagram, the ancient castle of
Dévény (Theben).[12]
Just beyond is the steamer landing place for the little town of the
same name. It is a point well worth pausing at for the exploring of the
extensive but greatly battered ruins, and for the walk inland among
the hills, especially to the summit of the Thebener Kogel, from which
a grand view of the course of the two rivers, and of the extensive
Marchfeld is to be obtained, with on the right, near the right bank
of the March, the Schlosshof, at one time the residence of Prince
Eugène, one of the most celebrated generals of his age. The view from
the ruins themselves, though less extensive, is even more delightful
with its nearer prospect of the river, in which the castled cone of
Hainburg forms an important feature. With Hainburg thus near, and
Deutsch-Altenburg with its memories of imperial Rome, but a little
beyond, with the great battleground of the Marchfeld stretching below
us to the west, and Pozsony (Pressburg), few miles further down-stream
Dévény (Theben) is a centre of manifold interests as it is certainly a
point of great beauty. Then, too, it makes something of a sentimental
appeal as being the gateway to the ancient kingdom of Hungary.
The name of Dévény has been fancifully derived from Devoyna or Dovina,
“the name of a goddess who was worshipped with honours similar to those
offered to the Roman Venus,” by some early race of Slavonic barbarians,
and that race is supposed to have had a temple on this height. In the
ninth century the Moravian empire is believed to have extended as far
as this, and the founder of that empire to have had a castle here.
These traditions of history, too, have their companion tradition of
romance, for a tragic love story is associated with the ruins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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