To happen, as I did, on my first visit upon a busy market day in
Pozsony (Pressburg) is to participate in a scene of animation about
which one is tempted to linger. At the top of the irregular market
place stand a number of long narrow wagons with basketwork sides, laden
with vegetables and drawn by large buff-coloured bullocks. Passing into
the crowd of peasants and townsfolk, we see wares displayed on stalls
or spread over the ground in a glorious confusion of colour. Roughly,
the sellers of commodities seem to classify themselves. At one side of
the “Platz” are the sellers of bread in many forms, in another part
are to be seen rows of boot and shoe sellers, dealers in drapery and
haberdashery. Glancing up a court we may notice a buxom peasant woman
trying on a pair of high leather boots reaching above the knees. A
little beyond are the dealers in fruit and vegetables; great mounds
of dark green melons, like large cannon balls, are piled up, and here
and there one that has been cut or broken reveals the beautifully
contrasting purplish red of the flesh within; broad baskets or tubs
tilted to one side show masses of paprika, the national condiment, a
delicate red pepper the rare savour of which some visitors fail to
recognize. All round are peasants who have brought in their wares,
sometimes of the slightest, that they may make something if it be but
a few fillers by the transactions; sometimes the wares consist of but
a few handfuls of half-ripe beans of various kinds, sometimes of three
or four dozen tomatoes, good, bad, or indifferent. From the vegetables,
past the vendors of herbs and of flowers, cut and in pots, we come to
rows of women selling butter and cream and cheese, and beyond them are
stalls after stalls at which ready cooked geese and ducks are being
sold whole or by the half or quarter bird, and beyond these again
are the butchers’ booths. At the lower end of the market place live
geese and fowls are being disposed of, while under the acacias that
surround a statue sits a circle of women each of whom has spread upon
the ground by her little heaps of various fungi unknown to English
culinary art--“toadstools” of all shapes and sizes and colours. These
fungi-sellers are a noticeable feature of many of the markets that
we visit, but here and at Ratisbon they seemed more numerous than
elsewhere. The whole scene is perhaps typical of many of the markets
that may be visited, but it was the busiest of those which I happened
to see. One is struck by the absence of any marked characteristics of
local costume--the various coloured head kerchiefs are much the same as
those to be found in places far apart as Bohemia and northern Spain,
two dominant notes of colour being “butchers’ blue” in the women’s
gowns, and a warm yellow-brown in the kerchief. Of striking costume but
little is to be seen unless the visitor penetrates further from the
river highway, or unless he happens upon some special festival.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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