Passing under this bridge, the steamer starts upon a long stretch of
country marked by the sameness of tree-grown banks and islets, with
for many miles little to vary a certain monotony beyond the passing of
quaint water-mills, moored singly or in groups of as many as a dozen,
now in midstream and now close to the bank. These mills consist of a
small wooden house on one boat, with a large water wheel, the lower
part submerged, connecting it with another boat. On the shore are
frequent little granaries not much larger than the floating mills, both
being common objects of the Danube for many miles. Before we reach
them, however, it should be pointed out that arms of the river branch
off left and right a little below Pozsony and do not rejoin the main
stream for a long distance. That on the left forms the Csallóköz island
or Grosse Schütt--a rich agricultural island nearly sixty miles long,
more than thirty wide at its broadest part, and having scattered about
it nearly a hundred villages. The right branch of the Danube, which
rejoins earlier, forms the Kleine Schütt. These villages are, however,
but infrequently glimpsed from the steamer as the island shores along
the main stream are broken up into innumerable islets.
Here we are at one of the shallowest parts of the great river’s course,
and exposed banks are not infrequent when the water is low, while
the steamer has to pick its channel now close to the right bank and
then close to the left--especially as we pass some of the rapids. The
islands are said to be rich in wildfowl--which it is easy to believe
when we have seen between Pozsony (Pressburg) and Esztergom (Gran)
flocks of many hundreds of wild duck.
The first stopping place in the river’s long winding through this plain
is Körtvélyes--the steamer station for Somorja (Sommerein), the chief
town on the greater island; the next is Bös or Böös, a mere landing
place, the town which it serves lying two or three miles inland.
Passing the little-varying green banks, broken into islets, with a rare
spire seen at a distance over the trees, or an occasional peasant with
a small herd of cattle, we reach the end of the smaller of the islands
where the river Raba or Raab (with which the Danube branch has united)
comes in on the right. The town of the same name, once the frontier
town between the Turkish and German empires, is a few miles up that
stream--and then, on the same flat and unattractive bank, we reach
Gönyö from which local steamers run up to Györ (Raab), an interesting
old town, described as peculiarly Hungarian, on the site of the Roman
station of Arabona, now an important manufacturing centre with more
than forty thousand inhabitants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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