From the fortress is to be had an extensive view over the low-lying
country through which the Danube here flows, of its broad stream, and
of the wooded islands formed by its branchings, while to the south are
the beautiful hills and woodlands of the Fruska-Gora. After the river
has turned southwards again, looking back over the winding course
of the stream, the Gibraltar of the Danube remains long visible.
Karlowitz, the next stopping place, on the right bank, is not only
celebrated as having given its name to the wine of the district,
but is a point of historical importance as that where the Treaty of
Karlowitz was signed in 1699. That treaty, which removed the Turkish
frontier to Servia, and by which Austria acquired the greater part of
Hungary and Transylvania, was signed in a building above the town,
where now stands the chapel of Mariafried.
The scenery here is pleasantly diversified, with its wooded and
vine-grown hills, while the river is broken up by many islands. At
Slankamen, on the right, is an obelisk commemorating a defeat of the
Turks in 1691; a little beyond, on the left Tisza (Theisseck), is
situated at the confluence of the Danube with the greatest of its
tributaries--the Tisza (Theiss), which, rising in the Carpathians,
flows for about seven hundred and fifty miles west and south, through
the great Hungarian plain of the Alföld to its junction here with the
Danube. As we approach Zimony (Semlin), its Millenary monument and
castle remains are to be seen on the hill above it, while beyond we get
a glimpse of the towers of Belgrade.
At Zimony (Semlin) we reach the last Hungarian town on the right bank
of the Danube--a town which as a frontier station has been, and is, a
place of some importance. From where the Drave flows into the Danube
to where the Save comes in just below Zimony (Semlin), is the eastern
boundary of the old kingdom of Croatia, now incorporated with that of
Hungary. Largely masked by trees, much of the town is hidden from the
water, and when we get into it we find in its low white houses, its
shops and larger buildings a blending, as it were, of east and west.
Two-thirds of its inhabitants are described as German, and the rest are
mainly Croatian and Servian. Its small market square, a little distance
from the quay, with its booths on which clothes, beads, and cheap
jewellery, fruit, vegetables and meat are exposed, offers an animated
scene. Here, too, are said to be many gipsies, and here, in the hotel
court-yard, is one of the few places in which I heard one of the gipsy
bands for which Hungary has long been famous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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