Should any be inclined to doubt the story, they have only to journey
thither in the early summer, and they will be able to see the flies
for themselves, possibly to feel them. Various accounts of the flies,
which are said to resemble mosquitoes, have been published, and one
doubter of their dragon origin says that “when the Danube rises, as
it does in the early part of summer, the caverns are flooded; and the
water remaining in them and becoming putrid, produces this noxious
insect.” They are so destructive, according to one writer, “that oxen
and horses have been killed by them” while “they appear in such swarms
that they look like a volume of smoke, and sometimes cover a space of
six or seven miles. Covered with these insects, horses not infrequently
gallop about till death puts an end to their sufferings. Shepherds
anoint their limbs with a decoction of wormwood and keep large fires
burning,” as protection against them--as the Canadian prairie farmers
light “smudges” to keep off mosquitoes; “but upon any material change
in the weather the whole swarm is destroyed.” It is scarcely likely
that the Golubacz fly breeds only in this one cavern--but if it should
breed in stagnant water along here, it might be well to try the effect
of liberal quantities of oil. Blocking the entrance to the cavern is
said to have been tried by the peasants many years ago, but, says the
record, the insects destroyed the stone and got out!
Along the base of these caverned rocks the Széchenyi road runs,
frequently blasted through the stone which hangs beetling overhead,
and, where the cliffs are most precipitous, sometimes built up on
projecting portions of them. We are here in the first portion of the
magnificent scenery which, though varying in character, continues
all the way to the Iron Gate below Orsova. “From Galambócz onwards,
the scenery presents the same characteristics of wild, solitary
grandeur--beetling cliffs shooting up into the sky--the exclusive
domain of eagles and other birds of prey, screaming as they wheel in
rapid circumvolutions overhead; vast, interminable forests, that climb
the highest mountains and descend into the deepest gorge; cataracts
roaring and leaping from rock to rock; majestic trees, with the soil
washed from under them, and ready to be hurled by the next blast
into the river; others, stripped of their bark, white and mutilated,
dashing along with the current, are but a few of the sights and sounds
which meet the traveller in this primæval wilderness. Almost the only
relieving features are here and there a flock of goats, a rude Servian
fishing boat or a solitary herdsman.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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