About a couple of miles to the east--across the Cerna--is a remarkable
Hungarian shrine, a small chapel approached by a splendid avenue of
tall, tapering poplars. This is the Crown Chapel, marking a historic
spot. When on the failure of the Hungarian Revolution the leaders had
to seek safety in exile, they took with them the crown of St. Stephen
and the other regalia, but nearing the frontier they had not the heart
to confess the failure of their high ideals by taking the national
insignia out of the country, and so sought a wild and lonely spot,
still on Hungarian soil, where they dug a deep hole and buried it,
each taking a pledge not to reveal its whereabouts without the consent
of the rest. Four or five years later, when the national cause seemed
hopelessly lost, the whereabouts of the hidden treasure was told to
the Emperor of Austria, and the exact place where the precious regalia
was buried was found with some difficulty, and the historic articles
recovered. Over the spot the Emperor, as king of Hungary, had the small
chapel erected. The creeper-clad building stands at the end of a fine
poplar avenue at right angles to the road from Orsova to the Rumanian
frontier. When I visited it the surroundings had been devastated two
or three weeks before by a terrible flood, which had swept down the
valley of the Cerna, destroying railway bridges, farms, cottages, and
everything in its course. The raised Orsova road had been washed away
in great gaps, and all around was muddy desolation. The subsiding
waters had left earthy marks some feet up the poplars and other trees,
and the grounds about the chapel were deep in soil deposited by the
rushing flood, while nearer Orsova so much earth had been swept down by
the torrent as to change the position of the Cerna’s outlet into the
Danube.
The charmingly natural figure of the Virgin and Child in the Crown
Chapel was the work of the Austrian sculptor, Meissner, who, having
devoted his life to wordly art, turned at its close to sacred
subjects, and died after completing this piece of work. The right hand
of the Virgin, having been broken off, has been replaced by the work of
an inferior artist.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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