It was autumn when I journeyed down the Danube, but even then, at every
place I stayed and along such stretches of the river as I explored
afoot, the wealth of flowers was such as to suggest how much greater it
must be in spring and summer. And it may be said that, impressive as
is the ever-changing panorama seen from the comfortable steamers, the
river becomes the more endeared to us the more we can explore of such
details as cannot be seen, or can be but glanced at from the water.
Certainly much of the Servian shore looks so inviting as to suggest
that Miss Skene’s enthusiasm was not too fervid.
Shortly after we emerge from between the hills that border the
cataracts of the Iron Gate, the hills fall away on either side, and
we pass between banks low on the Servian and higher on the Rumanian
shores. Small villages are seen, the second of these on the right
being Kladova, which is interesting as having been the Roman station
of Egeta--the starting point, presumably, of the two important lines
of conquest represented by Trajan’s road along the Danube bank and by
the other which passed north into Dacia from a bridge across the river,
some of the bricks of which “are alive at this day to testify.”
This bridge crossed the Danube from the Servian shore, some distance
below Turn Severin, a Rumanian town which is presumed to take its
name from the scrap of an ancient tower supposed to have been built
by Severinus. Trajan’s bridge is described by Gibbon as having
consisted of twenty-two stone piles with wooden arches; other writers
refer to it as a stone bridge, which seems to be more likely, if it
be true that, when it was destroyed by Hadrian with the object of
preventing the invasion of the Goths, its ruins stopped the course of
the river. Gibbon refers to the river here as being shallow and the
current gentle; but it was assuredly rapid enough when I was there to
suggest that Apollodorus, the architect, must have had a sufficiently
formidable task when he set about building the bridge for Trajan. Only
scraps of the bridge-head are now visible. Michael Joseph Quin, who
made a steam voyage down the Danube in 1834, appears to have been one
of the first of the moderns to fix the situation of the bridge and to
describe it. The “Count” of his notes, it may be mentioned, was Count
Széchenyi, “the great Hungarian,” who was then superintending the
making of his great road, and with whom Quin had the good fortune to
travel some distance down the river below Orsova:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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