Below Widdin, the Danube turns eastward again, and flows sinuously in
that general direction for nearly two hundred miles, before taking
its final north-easterly trend. The wide river, with many islands,
continues through low land, on the left being the vast Wallachian or
Rumanian plain, largely hidden by the islands formed by the river,
while on the right it is in great part also flat, though now and again
the monotony is broken by higher ground. Lom-Palanka, for instance, a
town of about six thousand inhabitants, and the railhead for Sofia, is
described as being beautifully situated on wooded hills, but beyond
both shores become monotonously flat and broken with ditches and pools,
close-grown with reeds and other aquatic vegetation.
The next place of note, Somovit, on the Bulgarian side, is the
railhead of another line to the capital. The railway to Sofia passes
through Plevna, which stands about twenty-five miles south of Somovit.
Plevna was the centre of the most remarkable incident in the latest
Russo-Turkish War, when it was defended in stubborn and magnificent
fashion by Osman Pasha against a mighty Russian and Rumanian army.
Twice in July, 1877, did the enemy unsuccessfully attack the town. In
September (7-13) they made a grand assault, and were repulsed with
a loss of eighteen thousand men. In October, Plevna was formally
invested, but Osman held out until 10 December, when he was compelled
to surrender. It had taken the Russians one hundred and forty-two
days to capture the town, and they had lost forty thousand men in the
operation, while the defenders had lost as many as thirty thousand.
Those travellers who, after journeying down the Danube, wish to visit
Sofia, are recommended to journey thither from Somovit rather than from
Lom-Palanka, not only because it gives the opportunity of seeing the
scene of historic battling, but because the railway line “runs through
a perfect Alpine region.”
The next place after Somovit, also on the Bulgarian shore, is Nicopoli,
picturesquely situated at the foot of bold cliffs and up the slopes
between them. For here the left bank has taken on new beauty, and
in front of it the Danube stretches, about two miles in width, its
surface broken by a number of islands about which pelicans and various
waterfowl abound. Its mosques and minarets remain as indications of the
long period that it was a Turkish town, and to suggest something of the
past when the Crescent and the Cross fought strenuously together for
the mastery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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