To turn from the record of an ancient traveller to that of a modern
one, Dr. Clarke, whom I have already quoted, gives the following
description: “At four o’clock in the morning we were called upon deck
by the captain to see the Isle of Serpents, anciently Leuce, lying off
the mouths of the Danube, celebrated in history for the tomb and temple
of Achilles. It is so small that, as we passed, we could view its whole
extent. Judging by the eye, it appeared to be near a mile in length and
less than half a mile in breadth. It is quite bare, being only covered
with a little grass and very low herbage. When carefully examined
through a telescope, there did not seem to be the smallest remains of
antiquity. I made a sketch of it from the south-east. On the south side
appear cliffs about fifty feet high.
“Many absurd stories of Turkish and Russian mariners are founded upon a
notion that the island is covered with serpents. An opportunity rarely
occurs whereon ships can lie to in order to visit it; and, if this
were to happen, not a man of any of their crews would venture on shore,
although there are twenty fathoms of water within a cable’s length of
the island, and any vessel may sail close to it. The Russians relate
that four persons belonging to the crew of a ship wrecked there no
sooner landed than they encountered a worse enemy than the sea, and
were all devoured by serpents. Ammianus Marcellinus records a similar
superstition as prevailing in his time concerning the dangers of the
place.”
Here we have an indication of the reason for the island’s name; and
though the legends of sailors being devoured by them are of course mere
legends, the existence of the serpents seems beyond question. Captain
Spratt, in his Admiralty survey of the mouths of the Danube, says “the
modern name of Fido-nisi or Serpent Island, has no doubt arisen from
the abundance of these reptiles upon the island; and they are still
very numerous, being veritable sea-serpents, or water-snakes, living
upon the fish in the sea, and inhabiting the cliffs on the coast. More
than twenty of them were seen coiled together under a shelving rock
that received the rays of a warm October sun; and many having fallen
into the wells and cisterns died there: the water in them is not now
drinkable, so that water for the Turkish troops is obliged to be
brought from the Danube. The serpents are jet black, except along the
belly. They have a small head, and are from four to five feet long,
and, although said to be harmless, are a very disagreeable-looking
species.”
A traveller on the lower Danube has recorded the number of fresh-water
snakes seen swimming along with their heads erect above the surface,
and it may be that the reptiles of Serpent Island were (perhaps are,
though I have found no recent reference to them) a colony of such that
found the water about their island still sufficiently fresh. The true
sea snakes are described by writers on natural history as only found in
Asiatic seas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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