The coming of the steamers meant the passing of the old “ordinari” or
mixed passenger and merchandise boats which bygone travellers describe,
and we no longer see these cumbersome but picturesque craft with the
cabins like floating wooden huts, their many men at the oars, or long
oar-steering work, drifting mostly with the stream downwards and being
towed upwards--sometimes by a body of men and sometimes by large teams
of horses. The men who hired out these horses were known as “Jodelen”
and it is said that there would sometimes be as many as thirty or forty
horses drawing four or five boats fastened together. These “Jodelen”
are described as having had a superstition that some of their number
must every year be sacrificed to the Spirit of the Water, and as a
consequence when an accident occurred they would all scramble for the
drowning man’s hat but never think of “stretching a finger to save
him whom they look upon as a doomed and demanded victim.” Less than a
hundred years ago a traveller declared that he had seen five “Jodelen”
with their horses precipitated into the river, when their companions
hastily cut the ropes to prevent the rest of the team from following,
and drove on, leaving the poor wretches to their fate. The coming of
the steamers must, it may well be believed, have greatly lessened
the toll of life taken by the Danube, though when we see the timber
rafts floating down with three or four men at either end using their
great steering sweeps, and remember some of the places where the swift
current “boils” at the various rapids, we cannot help feeling that it
must be hazardous work.
Once round the bend to the left immediately below the beautiful old
city, and with the view of Passau cut off, we naturally look forwards,
and find that we are entering newly grand scenery, where both sides
of the river are high, rocky and pine-clad. Where the railway bridge
crosses the river, we pass, so far as the right bank is concerned, from
Bavaria into Austria. The left bank for some time yet continues to be
Bavarian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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