The castle of this legend occupies a grandly picturesque position on
a jutting spur of rock, close neighboured by other pine-clad rocky
heights. From this beautiful point the river sweeps leftwards again,
and soon on the lower ground of the left side is seen the town of
Obernzell, the first “port of call,” backed by hills and trees. This
place has long been famous “all the world over” for its manufacture of
crucibles and for its graphite quarries. Beyond, the scenery becomes
again more mountainous. On the right is seen the village of Kasten, and
a little further the high-perched castle of Viechtenstein forms another
picturesque feature in the landscape, another reminder of the olden
times when all along the river powerful nobles had their strongholds.
Before the bishops of Passau got hold of it, the castle had belonged to
the Counts of Wassenburg--worthy fellows, it is said of those who ruled
at Bogen and elsewhere on the river. One of these Counts, on setting
out for the Crusades had pledged Viechtenstein to the Bishop of Passau
with the understanding that if the Count did not return the bishop
might at once take possession. The Count did return, however, and when
he died, left the castle to his widow. The bishop laid claim to it, and
sought to get possession, only to be defeated and taken prisoner. But
the episcopal voice was more powerful than the episcopal arms, and by
pronouncing a ban of excommunication against all who had withstood him,
the bishop not only succeeded in winning his freedom but the castle to
boot!
A little further down-stream, a rock, standing about thirty feet above
the stream and dividing the channel, takes the attention. This is the
Jochenstein, a natural boundary as it were; north of it is Bavaria,
south of it is Austria, and on either side of it the arms of these
countries were long since duly placed. From time to time, the Danube
water sprite Isa--“a harmless sister of the Lorelei of the Rhine”--is
said here to make her appearance.
A little below the Jochenstein, where the ruined tower of Ried shows
above the trees, and where a small stream the Dirndlbach, flows into
the Danube is the actual boundary; after passing which we have Austria
on either hand. Beyond the fact that it is said to have been destroyed
by the conquering Swedes in the seventeenth century, tradition seems to
have nothing to say of this old castle on the fir-clad hill; although
its name is supposed to be the only survival of an old tribe, the
Rheadarii, who inhabited the district. Just beyond, on the right, is
Engelhartzell, the first of the steamer stopping places in Austrian
territory, and the one-time seat of an old Cistercian monastery once
known as that of the Angels. The monastery has in modern times come to
be used as the residence of a noble family.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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