Approaching hillier country as it nears Linz, the Danube trends
again to the north-east, and Ottensheim is seen on the left with its
handsome chateau rising from among a leafy mass of trees and forming a
picturesque “bit.” The town was mostly destroyed by fire about a dozen
years ago. A little further along on the right is Kloster Wilhering
with an extensive and once widely powerful Cistercian Abbey founded
in the twelfth century, but the present buildings were erected in the
eighteenth. It is backed by the Kirnbergwald--the pines of which are
seen for most of the rest of the journey to Linz. Here the river enters
a beautiful valley with varied woodland-grown hills on either side,
with the high Pöstlingberg crowned with its pilgrimage church showing
ahead. Beyond Buchenau, with its compact church on the left, is seen on
the right the Kalvarienberg, or Mount Calvary, the little chapels and
crucifix of which together offer a place of pilgrimage for the citizens
of Linz. With its falling waters, its craggy rocks and pine trees, it
forms a pleasantly picturesque spot. From Ottensheim to Linz, it may be
added, the railway keeps closely along the left bank. By wooded hills,
the high Pöstlingberg on the left, and the lower yet steeply impressive
height, close-grown with fir, on the right, the river reaches Linz on
the right bank, having Urfahr on the opposite side, with which it is
connected by an ugly lattice iron bridge, over nine hundred feet in
length.
Linz, the capital of Upper Austria, is a clean, prosperous-looking
town, the straight lines of its buildings contrasting strongly with
the delightful irregularity of Passau; and its air of modernity
gives no suggestion that as Lentia it was one of the Roman stations
on the Danube. Possibly when the Huns destroyed it they did so with
thoroughness. At the western end of the broad valley through which
the river continues for many miles, and backed by the hills, Linz is
picturesquely situated, though it is necessary to climb the hills to
appreciate this properly. There are a number of churches, a handsome
museum, and other fine buildings, but the town itself does not claim
long attention, except as an admirable centre for beautiful excursions
on both sides of the river. The fine Franz Joseph Platz is seen at
its best when, crowded with the stalls and carts of market time, it
presents a lively and picturesque scene. The Trinity Column in the
centre of it was erected early in the eighteenth century to commemorate
the deliverance of the town from two scourges--the Turks and the
plague. Pestilence in the olden times seems, indeed, to have been so
constant a menace to many of these towns that it is matter for wonder
that people were left to take part in the no less constant warfare.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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