Among the legends of Enns, is one which declares that St. Peter
preached the gospel here in the year 49, and another which describes
St. Mark and St. Luke as converting the townspeople to the Christian
faith. The latter legend was duly inscribed on the city walls in verses
that also told how it was here that St. Florian was thrown in the
river, and that Maximilian the bishop was “always gentle towards the
poor.” In the centre of the market place stands a tall detached tower
erected by Maximilian the First, in the early part of the sixteenth
century.
For several miles after the confluence of the Enns with the Danube,
the journey continues among islands grown with willows and other
water-loving vegetation, the river gradually nearing higher ground on
the right, until the stream bends leftwards near where the modernized
castle of Wallsee, white with red-tiled roofs, and a handsome
clock-tower, rises handsomely among trees at the landing stage. The
village is hidden from sight. Wallsee, where the Emperor of Austria
stays, has extensive park-like lands on the same, right, bank of the
river, while on the opposite side also are large pheasant preserves and
hunting grounds. The castle--six or seven hundred years old--was bought
by the Emperor a few years ago, and was then rebuilt. Close to the
general landing place, is a special little chalet for the use of the
Court.
For a time beyond Wallsee the scenery continues to be that afforded by
willow-grown islands and low banks, but ahead are seen the mountains.
Where the valley narrows and the hills are approached on our way to the
town of Ardagger on the right, we pass one of the wire “ferries,” by
means of which the current is made to take a boat across from shore to
shore. Here, it is said, the Emperor Conrad the Second landed in May,
1147, to complete arrangements for getting his great force through the
Wachau defile, with its terrible “Strudel” and “Wirbel,” when setting
out on his disastrous crusade. How great a proportion of his horde he
had here is not reported, but when he marshalled it in the great plain
of Hungary, says Gibbon, there were fifteen thousand knights and as
many squires, “the flower of the German chivalry”; altogether sixty
thousand horse and one hundred thousand foot; while “under the banners
of Conrad, a troop of females rode in the attitude and armour of men,
and the chief of these Amazons, from her gilt spurs and buskins,
obtained the epithet of the golden footed dame.” On the heights above
Ardagger is perched a pilgrimage church dedicated to St. Ottilia,
one of the patron saints of shoemakers. When I first visited Grein a
large band of pilgrims--most of the women wearing white head kerchiefs
embroidered in colours--who had been visiting the shrine, went on board
the steamer to return to their own neighbourhood some distance down the
river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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