Inland from Grein about three miles is Bad Kreuzen, a hydropathic
establishment for summer visitors, beautifully situated. The castle of
Kreutzen was a goodly stronghold in past times, and, like Neuhaus, was
used, notably when, in the early part of the sixteenth century, the
Turks were devastating Upper Austria, as a place of refuge for those
driven from their homes by the advancing enemy.
Passing down the Danube by the steamer affords a great variety of
lovely scenery, but some parts of that scenery, beautiful as they are
when seen in passing, are found to be far more beautiful when known
with pedestrian intimacy. This applies particularly to where the river
twists and winds among the mountains as through the Schlägen, and for
the greater part of the way from Grein to Krems. A road, in the latter
case, closely follows the windings of the stream, and in its turn is
now closely neighboured by a railway which has been cut through rocks
and mountain sides, and is carried by great stone embankments over the
narrow valleys where many mountain brooks come down.
Just below Grein is a wild swirl of waters, the beginning of the
“Greiner-schwall”; but even here, fearsome as the waters look, we may
see a couple of girls navigating a heavy ferry boat, allowing the
foaming water to take it onwards as they steer for the further bank.
About a mile further down, and the channel is divided by the large
island of Wörth, the main stream to the left forming the Strudel.
Where, to the right, a broad stream sweeps round between the end of the
island and the wooded slopes of the Rabenstein at high water, at low
water is to be seen nothing but a bed of white shingle.
Towards the further end of the island rises an abrupt rock, with some
ruined remains of a castle surmounted by a large crucifix. Certainly
the tempestuous waters seem formidable enough, but after the many
lesser rapids passed in the downward journey, they prove less thrilling
than some earlier writers have led us to expect. A steamer, too,
perhaps imparts more confidence than would a smaller, frailer craft.
Now, the high-perched crucifix does not appear to claim the attention
which it did of old; though there must be much of the olden danger
still to those who come down these rapids in small boats and on rafts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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