This is the pilgrimage church of Maria-Taferl, some distance inland
from Marbach, which pleasant little town seems chiefly to exist
as a point of approach for the place of pilgrimage. In something
under an hour’s walk, the last part of it up a broad hillside
avenue, the roadway of which is formed into wide steps, we may reach
Maria-Taferl--and if the atmosphere be suitable may have a widely
extensive view in both directions of the “Imperial Danube’s rich
domain” and of the distant Austrian and Styrian Alps. The view is,
indeed, said to extend for a hundred miles, from Hungary to Bavaria.
When I climbed it lowering rain clouds cut off all but the nearer view
of the river. The village that has sprung up around the pilgrimage
church is like nothing so much as a huge bazaar for the sale of
souvenirs and picture postcards to pious pilgrims and curious visitors.
On special occasions--particularly in September--it is a point to which
large crowds of devotees converge. It is said that as many as one
hundred and fifty thousand pilgrims have visited the shrine in a single
year; some of them perhaps inspired by the promise of the distich which
runs--
“Wer nach Maria Taferl ein Wallfahrt maken thut
Diess ihm Maria Taferl macht aller wiedergut.”
(“Who to Maria Taferl a pilgrimage takes
To him Maria Taferl all good again makes.”)
This church--about eight hundred feet above the river level--was
erected in consequence of the miracles worked by an image of the Virgin
which used to be fixed to an old oak tree on the hillside. At this
tree the peasantry were wont at Easter to offer up their prayers for
a goodly harvest, and at its foot they would have their feasting at a
big stone table (tafel or taferl). When the tree had fallen into decay
a peasant, in 1662, sought to cut it down, but the axe, though aimed
at the trunk, struck the would-be woodsman’s own foot. Looking up, the
peasant saw the image and was instantly struck with contrition, and his
penitent prayers were answered by the instant and miraculous curing of
the newly inflicted wound. The news was soon bruited abroad and the
fame of the image increased thereby.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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