The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
open hatches. The English flag fluttered from many a mast, the names of
familiar ports could be read on almost every great rounded stern, and
the English language distinctly reached our ears in the babel of several
other tongues. We had paddled a long forty miles against a heavy wind
and sea, and preferring the quiet of camp to the confusion of the busy
town, landed on an unoccupied meadow in full view of Braila, extending
far along the bluff and looking down upon the forest of masts on the
river, and with the spires and domes of Galatz distinctly visible on a
high point of land a few miles below us.
Braila is at the head of navigation for sea-going vessels, and as it is
only about 125 miles from the mouth of the river, is practically a port
on the Black Sea. A few years ago it was of secondary commercial
importance to Galatz, a larger town similarly placed on a bluff fifteen
miles farther down-stream. Since the Turkish war, however, the grain
trade has been gradually transferred to the former city, until it has
now absorbed the whole of this commerce, and has become the chief
shipping port for all the produce of the grain-growing regions of
Roumania and northern Bulgaria. Extensive docks and immense grain
elevators have been built there, and will soon be in active operation.
We had seen at various places below Rustchuk indications of the
proximity of Russia, chiefly in the architecture of churches, with their
green domes and bulbous spires, but also in various details of costume,
carriages, and harnesses. At Braila all the carts which carry grain to
the steamers have the Russian bow over the horses’ withers, and many
Russian signs are seen on the shops. All the public carriages of Galatz
are driven by Russians, members of a peculiar religious sect, who wear
their national costume, consisting of a long black velvet coat with full
skirts, plaited at the waist, and two rows of silver buttons on the
breast, tall boots, and the characteristic flat-topped cap. The fashion
of employing Russian coachmen, once prevalent all over Roumania, is fast
dying out now, however, and is said to continue in full force in Galatz
alone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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