The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
our bows. The wind had risen again at sunset, the shallow water grew
rougher and rougher every moment, and delay was fatal unless we chose to
pass the night moored to a snag, or in the shelter of the reeds on the
shore. At first we thought of taking refuge at one of the fishermen’s
huts among the reeds at the mouth of the passage, but, discovering a
white building far across the bay in the direction of Sulina, we headed
our canoes for that, knowing we should find solid earth there, and
paddled harder than we had done since we shot the rapids at the Iron
Gates. Drenched with spray from the high cross-seas, we finally reached
the other shore just as darkness was shutting down, and, pushing through
a great bed of reeds, came out into a little muddy pool, with a landing
made of logs close by the little whitewashed house we had seen from a
distance. A half-dozen sailors of the Roumanian navy welcomed us
heartily as we landed, insisted on carrying up our canoes and luggage,
and helped us pitch our camp on a dry sandy spot near their quarters. It
was the evening of the 9th of September, and the journey from the Black
Forest to the Black Sea had occupied us eleven weeks and one day,
including twenty-eight days we had spent in excursions away from the
river and our delays at Vienna, Hainburg, and Budapest. We had paddled
and sailed 1775 miles through Germany, Austria, Hungary, Servia,
Bulgaria, Roumania, and Russia.
The following morning we were on our feet at dawn, eager to see what
sort of country we had reached in the darkness. We found that we were at
the “cordon,” or one of the Roumanian customs picket posts, on a point
of land called Cape Masoura, and that we had come out into the Black Sea
through that branch of the river called the Zaliv. The bay we had
crossed in the twilight was an ancient mouth of the river, not navigable
within the memory of man. Our camp was on the edge of a broad, rough
meadow, bordered on the north by great shallows where the sea is eating
into the land, and extending for miles to the southward, where a range
of sand-dunes hides Sulina from view, and to the west towards dark
masses of the great forest on a low, sandy elevation which marks the
line of the ancient sea-coast. The whole tract as far as we could see
was gay with wild-flowers. In Alfred Parsons’ note-book are enumerated
among the plants found on this sandy flat, sea-lavender (_Stalice
latifolia_), small Michaelmas daisy, just coming into blossom,
large-leaved meconopsis, mauve lactuca, and several yellow composite
flowers. In the lakes of the delta among the reeds he found
water-lilies, villarsia, frogbit, a floating plant like a yucca, with
thorny edges to the leaves, a sort of duck-weed with rough primate
leaves, and on the river-banks, loosestrife, hemp, agrimony, flowering
rush, and a thick undergrowth of marsh fern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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