Saturday night in South London is a particularly busy time for the wives
of the working classes. The chief thoroughfares in that great district
lying between Waterloo Bridge and Camberwell Green are rendered bright
by the flare of the naphtha-lamps of hoarse-voiced costermongers, whose
strident cries call attention to their rather unwholesome-looking wares,
and the crowds of honest housewives with ponderous baskets on their arms
are marketing in couples and threes, taking their weekly outing, which
is never to be missed. In the Walworth Road on a Saturday evening one
can perhaps obtain a better glimpse of London lower-class life than in
any other thoroughfare. The great broad road extending from that
junction of thoroughfares, the Elephant and Castle, straight away to the
site of old Camberwell Gate, and thence to the once rural but now sadly
deteriorated Camberwell Green, is ablaze with gas and petroleum, and
agog with movement. The honest, hard-working costermongers, with their
barrows drawn into the gutters, vie with the shops in prices and
quality; hawkers of all sorts importune passers-by on the congested
pavements; the hatless and oleaginous butchers implore the crowd to
"Buy, buy, buy," and the whole thoroughfare presents a scene of
animation unequalled in the whole metropolis--a striking panorama of
poverty, pinched faces, shabby clothes, and enforced economy. The
district between the Elephant and Camberwell Green has fallen upon evil
days. Those who knew the Walworth Road twenty years ago, and know it
now, will have marked its decadence with regret; how the lower life of
East Street, known locally as Eas' Lane, has overflowed; how fine old
houses, once tenanted by merchants and people of independent means, are
now let out in tenements; how model "flats" have reared their ugly
heads; how the jerry-builder has swallowed up Walworth Common, across
which Dickens once loved to wander; how all has changed, and Walworth
has become the Whitechapel of the south.
Life in Walworth is the lower life of modern Cockneydom. There are
streets in the district which, highly respectable thoroughfares twenty
years ago, now harbour some of the worst characters in London; streets
which, although a stone's throw from the noisy, squalid bustle of the
Walworth Road, a policeman hardly cares to venture down without a
companion; sunless streets where poverty and crime are hand in hand,
where filth has bred disease, and where stunted, pale-faced children
wallow in the gutter mire. The wreckage of London life now no longer
drifts towards the east, as it used to do, but crosses the Thames, and,
after struggling in Lambeth, is swallowed in the debasing vortex of
wretched, wonderful Walworth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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